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#1 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Grande prairie, AB, Canada
Posts: 296
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Worked all weekend on two boxes to fit 10 inch subs under my front seats. I used 3/4" mdf and it worked out to about 0.6 ft^ 3 for each box. I used 2 flat boss phantom subs which have 4" mounting depth and 0.6ft^3 sealed enclosure air space so it worked out nicely, plus each sub was only about 30$ so for a budget they work good. the boxes were sealed with silicone and then spray painted to protect the wood from water from peoples feet. I then carpeted them to try and match the floor carpet.
I moved the wires and brackets from the under seat computer such I saw someone else on the forum do. Under the drivers seat I moved the yaw sensor underneath the cup holders and got rid of the brackets. I mounted the amp under the rear seat. I had to cut the hard plastic towards the back to fit the amp. Surprisingly even with 10" subs there is still lots of room in the back seat. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Sorry about how dirty the car is but its hard to keep clean in the winter mess here. The mats in the backseat just have dried salt from the roads, not mud
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2008 RS 5.0. Hotchkis front and rear sway bar Python remote start/alarm Interior LED's 2 10" subs under seats, amp, touchscreen deck 220 psi train horn/compressor |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Lifetimer
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looks like it worked out well. No air compressor i guess? no biggy. Hows it sound? I bet non shallow woofers would work too.
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Header*Stainless steel exhaust*Fiberglassed amp rack*Fiberglassed Dual 15" woofer box*True Cold Air Intake w/bumper vent*130 sq feet sound deadening* JDM Springs 2.5" drop*Motegi FF7 17 lbs wheels Ixos 0 gauge wire*2 Shuriken SKBT35's for 400 farads capacitance*HiVi 8" woofers in doors*Custom door panels *MECP Certified *JL Audio Certified *Parrot Certified I.A.S.C.A. Pro S.Q.I. Competitor Chances are I might be able to help Car domain page for my RS8 OC-SD Chapter of Scikotics |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Lifetimer
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I usually seal boxes in this environment with serin, but out in that kinda cold resin takes a bit longer to setup.
I might have to try this with a fiberglass box for 12" woofers. Thank you, you sparked some ideas
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Header*Stainless steel exhaust*Fiberglassed amp rack*Fiberglassed Dual 15" woofer box*True Cold Air Intake w/bumper vent*130 sq feet sound deadening* JDM Springs 2.5" drop*Motegi FF7 17 lbs wheels Ixos 0 gauge wire*2 Shuriken SKBT35's for 400 farads capacitance*HiVi 8" woofers in doors*Custom door panels *MECP Certified *JL Audio Certified *Parrot Certified I.A.S.C.A. Pro S.Q.I. Competitor Chances are I might be able to help Car domain page for my RS8 OC-SD Chapter of Scikotics |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Grande prairie, AB, Canada
Posts: 296
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What do you mean by no air compressor? And it did work out well, I did the passenger and learned from my mistakes and did the drivers side second. The passengers top of the box is right around 12"x13". The handle under the seat to slide it forward goes back to locks and they stick out the furthest, as well if your doing this they come out even farther when you actually pull the handle, so keep that in mind cuz mine is very tight.
also your right flat subs are probably not completely necessary as my boxes are approx 6 1/2" deep. I went with shallow to make sure I had enough airspace. Also should say that the idea came from brickpigs stealth 8" although I blocked my floor vent where he did not.
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2008 RS 5.0. Hotchkis front and rear sway bar Python remote start/alarm Interior LED's 2 10" subs under seats, amp, touchscreen deck 220 psi train horn/compressor |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Grande prairie, AB, Canada
Posts: 296
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To answer your other question it sounds good but somewhat distorted. But I still have to tinker with my amp
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2008 RS 5.0. Hotchkis front and rear sway bar Python remote start/alarm Interior LED's 2 10" subs under seats, amp, touchscreen deck 220 psi train horn/compressor |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Lifetimer
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I'm just sayin it looked like you used screws primarily. Looks great and sounds great so no worries. excellent job. For me an 8" is a midbass as thats what i have in my doors. so its either 10" or bigger
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Header*Stainless steel exhaust*Fiberglassed amp rack*Fiberglassed Dual 15" woofer box*True Cold Air Intake w/bumper vent*130 sq feet sound deadening* JDM Springs 2.5" drop*Motegi FF7 17 lbs wheels Ixos 0 gauge wire*2 Shuriken SKBT35's for 400 farads capacitance*HiVi 8" woofers in doors*Custom door panels *MECP Certified *JL Audio Certified *Parrot Certified I.A.S.C.A. Pro S.Q.I. Competitor Chances are I might be able to help Car domain page for my RS8 OC-SD Chapter of Scikotics |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Grande prairie, AB, Canada
Posts: 296
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Did you do your own fiberglass for the doors? Is it hard to do?
And yeah the first box all I had was a skill saw and screws lol. The second box is primarily air nailed and then just the top is screwed on. I have 4 8" subs I want to use but I've never done fiberglass. But it would be sweet to put them in the doors
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2008 RS 5.0. Hotchkis front and rear sway bar Python remote start/alarm Interior LED's 2 10" subs under seats, amp, touchscreen deck 220 psi train horn/compressor |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Lifetimer
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It was easier for me as i've been doing this for awhile but its like anything, step by step. I'll post some pix below from my released album. this is by no means finished. as i am gonna redo the upper portions of the door with different speakers or a different build
http://www.newscionxb.com/members/11...lower-door.jpg http://www.newscionxb.com/members/11...bass-build.jpg
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Header*Stainless steel exhaust*Fiberglassed amp rack*Fiberglassed Dual 15" woofer box*True Cold Air Intake w/bumper vent*130 sq feet sound deadening* JDM Springs 2.5" drop*Motegi FF7 17 lbs wheels Ixos 0 gauge wire*2 Shuriken SKBT35's for 400 farads capacitance*HiVi 8" woofers in doors*Custom door panels *MECP Certified *JL Audio Certified *Parrot Certified I.A.S.C.A. Pro S.Q.I. Competitor Chances are I might be able to help Car domain page for my RS8 OC-SD Chapter of Scikotics |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 15
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I'm planning to follow BrickPig's design pretty much to the letter. One thing I'm not sure about is securing the box itself to the car. How did you do that? I'm assuming it's not just flopping about loose.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Grande prairie, AB, Canada
Posts: 296
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The way the floor is shaped there is a little indent under the seat on the floor like a wide u shape, I built my boxes tight to the dimensions of the floor and wedged it in there. After I carpeted the box it gave it an extra 3/8" thickness and also some friction, when I places it under the seat, I had to hit it once with a rubber mallet to push it into place.
So yes they are just sitting freely under there but they are not moving. If it ends up becoming loose then I will be in your position and have to find a way to secure them. Till then I don't have any issues yet.
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2008 RS 5.0. Hotchkis front and rear sway bar Python remote start/alarm Interior LED's 2 10" subs under seats, amp, touchscreen deck 220 psi train horn/compressor |
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