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post #11 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 04:56 PM
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OK, that makes sense now. Yes, what you are thinking of doing will work great and give you a solid mount to the car.

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post #12 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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Alright guys so I gave it another go and tried the right side cubby again. 4 layers of resin/mat/resin/mat seems to have given me quite a sturdy box. I pulled the mold out and gave it a decent stress test and it seems pretty stable. I started on the left side cubby and it's still drying as I type so hopefully that one comes out just as good. Tomorrow I'll be trimming the enclosures and ordering the mounting rings. Now I just have to decide which direction I want to mount them, so far straight up seems to make the most sense. Also Greg, I have no idea just how strong fiberglass is by feel, so my confidence with these enclosures holding up at full volume is getting me a bit worried, can I drill out a small hole on each one and do like a fake vent/port to relieve pressure or should I just have confidence 4 layers will be sturdy enough? It's sturdier than the plastic cubby is though, I can tell you that much.
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post #13 of 30 (permalink) Old 05-31-2014, 04:18 PM
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Rule of thumb is that when built the enclosure should not flex when pushed hard with your thumb.

Generally if it is 1/4" thick it should be strong enough. I would say 4 layers is not thick enough, but it depends on what weight mat you are using. I generally use 1.5 oz. mat and build up at least 6 layers, if not 8-10. Also remember that fiberglass is stronger in curved area than it is in flat areas.

Do not drill a hole as this will change the characteristics of the enclosure and also you will get whistling as air is forced through the small hole.

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post #14 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GarryGraves View Post
Alright guys so I gave it another go and tried the right side cubby again. 4 layers of resin/mat/resin/mat seems to have given me quite a sturdy box. I pulled the mold out and gave it a decent stress test and it seems pretty stable. I started on the left side cubby and it's still drying as I type so hopefully that one comes out just as good. Tomorrow I'll be trimming the enclosures and ordering the mounting rings. Now I just have to decide which direction I want to mount them, so far straight up seems to make the most sense. Also Greg, I have no idea just how strong fiberglass is by feel, so my confidence with these enclosures holding up at full volume is getting me a bit worried, can I drill out a small hole on each one and do like a fake vent/port to relieve pressure or should I just have confidence 4 layers will be sturdy enough? It's sturdier than the plastic cubby is though, I can tell you that much.
So I'm going to add here, even though I may not know 100% what I'm talking about lol. Hopefully someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

Regarding the hole to relieve pressure: I believe the pressure inside a sealed enclosure is what makes the woofer response more accurate, which is one of the advantages of a sealed enclosure. That's why I mentioned putting a rubber washer around the mounting bolt and why you need to seal around the wiring cup as well as between the sub and the mounting ring.

As for making it ported, ported enclosures need to be larger and the hole is a very specific size. Ported enclosures with a hole also have a tube inserted in them that is a very specific length. The size of the hole and length of the tube will emphasize a specific frequency depending upon their respective size, so you can't just put in a random hole and expect it to sound good.

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post #15 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 02:24 PM
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^^^ Right on the money zinger. Sealed means sealed. Ported tube sizes will vary in diameter and length to adjust frequency to the box size and sub design. Yeh, it is that specific...

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post #16 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-02-2014, 12:17 AM Thread Starter
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I didn't know it boiled down to all that. I'm a fan of ported boxes, I've actually had 3 over the years and are certainly my preferred style. I'm able to do the math but just too lazy, I'll just keep it sealed and do the 6 layers probably. Should be fine. Hopefully.
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post #17 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Alright so update: over the past few days I've managed to add 2 more layers of resin and mat each, then mounted the speaker ring in the right side enclosure and covered it with fleece and 2 coats of resin. I wanna do 3 more coats of resin on top of that and add in the mat inside around the ring and the sticks to reinforce those as well. Tomorrow I'll be doing a testfit and a dry run with it to make sure its going to be stable, then its just a matter of making it look nice and securing it well enough. I can't quite thank you guys enough for all the help you all have been, especially Greg, you're my hero bro hahaha!

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post #18 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by GarryGraves View Post
Alright so update: over the past few days I've managed to add 2 more layers of resin and mat each, then mounted the speaker ring in the right side enclosure and covered it with fleece and 2 coats of resin. I wanna do 3 more coats of resin on top of that and add in the mat inside around the ring and the sticks to reinforce those as well. Tomorrow I'll be doing a testfit and a dry run with it to make sure its going to be stable, then its just a matter of making it look nice and securing it well enough. I can't quite thank you guys enough for all the help you all have been, especially Greg, you're my hero bro hahaha!

Just make sure you actually mat and resin the whole structure, especially the fleece. Fleece and resin is not strong enough to withstand the forces of a subwoofer. The fleece is just for shape it still has to be glassed just like the base for the same strength levels. Once the fleece is completely soaked and sturdy you can go ahead and remove the sticks completely, they were only there to get the ring positioned, you don't need them in there any more.

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post #19 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-05-2014, 10:56 PM
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Quote:
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Just make sure you actually mat and resin the whole structure, especially the fleece. Fleece and resin is not strong enough to withstand the forces of a subwoofer. The fleece is just for shape it still has to be glassed just like the base for the same strength levels. Once the fleece is completely soaked and sturdy you can go ahead and remove the sticks completely, they were only there to get the ring positioned, you don't need them in there any more.
Why not just mat and resin the ring scaffolding into place? A little extra framework is well worth it.
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post #20 of 30 (permalink) Old 06-06-2014, 12:15 AM Thread Starter
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Wow, you save the day again Greg! I was just going to do pure resin on top of the fleece and throw it in there to test. I'll do few thick coats of resin/mat to finish it up then.
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