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-   -   Just installed a Bazooka xB2 subwoofer :)! (https://www.newscionxb.com/131-audio-electronics/8844-just-installed-bazooka-xb2-subwoofer.html)

phobic 10-10-2011 11:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrevorS (Post 83423)
My only disappointment is they sit just a tad too low to permit my cargo liner flap to slide underneath -- 'course, that's an accessory, so one can't expect too much. The especially nice thing about these is they keep the cargo area completely clear while providing very good sonic integration with the door speakers (IMO). Course, cool, everyone has their own likes and dislikes :p!

yeah definitely. I wish my cargo area was clear haha.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TartanJack (Post 83424)
The bottom is basically flush w/ the floor level. BUT, it also sits over the cavity there, so it looks like it is just hanging there. In person, it looks better and more "inconspicuous" than in most shots of it.

yeah, thats what I don't like, it blocks the cubby hole, but doesnt cover it completely, kinda weird.

Quote:

Originally Posted by TartanJack (Post 83430)
In many places, you need a HUGE custom fiberglass box to even be looked at for a trophy. Even hidden units that sound better get overlooked (excuse the pun).
(-A bit jaded over most car show judging by people w/ certain expectations that get every "custom" car looking alike and many pretty impractical as a regular transport car. But, that's just one soda box . . .
-modern soapboxes won't hold up anyone anymore.)

this is so true. My setup sounds like garbage, but wins trophies cause it looks awesome. It would be nice if a judge would actually take the time to understand what goes into a great custom sub enclosure thats both functional and looks great, but they dont for the most part.




TrevorS 10-10-2011 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by quackPOT (Post 83428)
Thanks for the info. I have both the cargo mat & top cover. I knew it conflicts with the cover edge support piece, but not the mat too. It's a bummer because I'd love to get the bass unit. Oh well...

I just took another look at it and tried removing the upper mount to see if there was any vertical play at all, and came up with none (definitely none at the bottom right mount). Then I felt across the bottom rear and it feels firmly and evenly in contact with the tray corner. So, I guess that's the design. The mat would go under if just the rightmost portion of that corner flap were trimmed off, probably less than an inch since the cabinet rear is lower than the front -- will have to think about that.

TrevorS 10-10-2011 04:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phobic (Post 83433)
yeah, thats what I don't like, it blocks the cubby hole, but doesnt cover it completely, kinda weird.

Actually, the corner tray is still pretty useable. The sub cabinet only extends over the outside corner of it.

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33...ubwoofer_4.jpg
http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a33...ubwoofer_5.jpg

TrevorS 10-10-2011 09:36 PM

Just spent a couple hours nailing down the relative sub level with a selection of CD's. This is one very capable little subwoofer :o! Discs used were:

Ingenue -- K.D. Lang
Legend -- Bob Marley
Taj -- Taj Mahal
Suddenly -- Billy Ocean
Chicago -- Chicago
Reflections (live performance) -- Carly Simon
Spread Your Wings and Fly (live performance) -- Laura Nyro

Primary listening focus was accurate bass-line reproduction, as demonstrated by believable tonality -- no one-note bass nonsense, rather clear pitch distinction between notes. I heard natural sounding bass registers with the live performance acoustic piano, excellent electric and acoustic bass reproduction, tight and clean with easily enough wave front pressure to feel in the stomach, excellent integration with the door speakers -- very impressed! I had no idea adding a sub could make such a difference, an 8" sub no less :)!

As I mentioned earlier, I did mod the wiring and it did make a difference, but as supplied, the sub works very well.

My setup:
Kenwood KDC-X792 head unit
Alpine SPS-17C2 coax door speakers
OE "A"-pillar tweeters
Edead damping in all doors
Bazooka w/ 10 AWG power, 12AWG ground, RCA sub out to low-level sub inputs

Totally awesome and highly affordable (~$200) :cheers:!

AJ_Gil 10-11-2011 09:38 AM

Thanks for the write-up and follow ups. I'm going to try to slip this under the wifes radar in the near future :p

TartanJack 10-11-2011 09:50 AM

I got mine from ebay for about $90, if I recall correctly.

Edit:
Looked it up on me ebay account and it was $190, shipped.




TrevorS 10-11-2011 06:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AJ_Gil (Post 83463)
Thanks for the write-up and follow ups. I'm going to try to slip this under the wife's radar in the near future :p

I never took the subwoofer idea that seriously until you mentioned the Bazooka and I saw the way it fit and the clean install. Then you pointed out that nice price and it became serious :)!

Quote:

Originally Posted by TartanJack (Post 83464)
I got mine from ebay for about $90, if I recall correctly.

Very nice! I'm guessing you must have got yours around the time of introduction. I get the impression an 8" sub is a good size for small cars.

BrickPig 10-12-2011 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TrevorS (Post 83449)
Bazooka w/ 10 AWG power, 12AWG ground, RCA sub out to low-level sub inputs

Hi TrevorS,

Just curious: you mentioned you did some rewiring on your setup. Your most recent post gave us a hint what you did. It sounds like the internal amp inside the VSE Bazooka enclosure has RCA inputs? If so:

- was it difficult to open the enclosure to gain access to the internal amp, and the RCA low-lovel inputs?
- can you post a pic of the internal amp, showing the wiring? Or did you use your own amp?
- did you retain the Bazooka wiring harness for the amp on/off or did you come up with your own solution?

I don't plan on altering my current sub setup, but I am curious what you did for your setup. Also it may help others on this site who are considering the VSE Bazooka. Thanks.

AJ_Gil 10-12-2011 04:26 PM

I just ordered the matching BA speakers for the rear doors and once I get past that the Bazooka will probably be next.

I too have a question on the hookup you used. You mentioned an optional hookup available to use the RCAs. Do you have a link or info? I assumed that since the Bazooks was made for the XB it yould use those but apparently not so I'm now curious which hookup offers the best sound options.

TrevorS 10-13-2011 12:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AJ_Gil (Post 83502)
I just ordered the matching BA speakers for the rear doors and once I get past that the Bazooka will probably be next.

I too have a question on the hookup you used. You mentioned an optional hookup available to use the RCAs. Do you have a link or info? I assumed that since the Bazooks was made for the XB it yould use those but apparently not so I'm now curious which hookup offers the best sound options.

The Bazooka was made to be xB2 factory head unit compatible, and it does a very good job of that regardless of year. If you want to do something a little different, then noodling and extra elbow grease is required :)! As mentioned in my SL thread, there is a shorty generic harness available that provides low-level access to the amplifier (Bazooka ELA-HP-AWK), however; deciding on and making the connections is up to you. (If you want one, I bought one, but as per my SL thread, never used it -- $10 shipped :)!) I used the original harness, but with mods! Without modding, the generic harness is most flexible.

PS. I've no idea if this input is useful, but I kept my OE tweeters and they work excellently with my aftermarket aimable coax door speakers (tweeters aimed toward the riders), just took Edead to damp the door panels to stop the diffraction interference that was screwing up the midrange (not a problem before the driver change). Also, I fade my sound a little toward the rear speakers and enjoy the greater sense of envelopment it provides. However, since the front seat backs are in the way of direct highs radiation, ambiance is limited -- though perhaps just as well since it helps keep the primary stage up front. Don't really want to smear the vocalists :)!

Quote:

Originally Posted by BrickPig (Post 83500)
Hi TrevorS,

Just curious: you mentioned you did some rewiring on your setup. Your most recent post gave us a hint what you did. It sounds like the internal amp inside the VSE Bazooka enclosure has RCA inputs? If so:

- was it difficult to open the enclosure to gain access to the internal amp, and the RCA low-lovel inputs?
- can you post a pic of the internal amp, showing the wiring? Or did you use your own amp?
- did you retain the Bazooka wiring harness for the amp on/off or did you come up with your own solution?

I don't plan on altering my current sub setup, but I am curious what you did for your setup. Also it may help others on this site who are considering the VSE Bazooka. Thanks.

Specifically, what I did was --

Spent time reading about Bazooka's products and drew conclusions about the internal amp and driver. Tried to access the apparent RCAs by opening the sub cabinet and failed miserably :( (so much for possible alternative amp considerations)! Asked questions on the Bazooka forum and learned of the alternative harness, but otherwise, they don't seem very communicative :(!

Tapped my main ACC feed with a fuse holder and ran 10AWG together with the Bazooka harness to the right rear of the car.

Disconnected the Bazooka harness speaker wire taps from the "T"-connector and made RCA pigtails to instead connect them to my HU sub outputs.

Settled on the "Remote Amp" control mode (depends on one's HU) and moved the single wire harness connector to the HU side of the "T"-connector, disconnected the Bazooka harness power connection, and removed the "T"-connector entirely.

Installed a 12AWG chassis ground wire at the right rear.

Trimmed the harness power and ground wires to roughly 8" from the sub connector and soldered my power and ground replacements.

Extracted the four high-level input contacts from the sub connector and moved them as a block to adjacent the power and remote connections (polarity must be preserved).

That's basically it. I chose not to drill through the rear pocket and instead run the wires under the lower edge of the "C"-pillar panel (hidden adjacent the taillight access panel) -- I really hate drilling holes in factory panels if avoidable :(!

Currently working on trimming the corner flap of my cargo liner to fit under the sub. In other words, I consider the sub a keeper :)!

Thinking of your own setup, I'm guessing your low frequency rolloff is roughly 30Hz instead of the Bazooka 35Hz. Bottom end extension isn't free and 30Hz is pretty darned good! I've no question you'll enjoy your install :)!


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