Hello to all.
My wife's '09 XB was exhibiting grinding noises aligned with wheel turn in left rear wheel, during and after breaking at low speeds as well as low accelerating speeds after stops.
I know little of cars and brakes, but took the wheel off, (needed to use the sledge on the rubber due to it being "frozen" on, as there was more rust than I expected back there) and had a look.
After reading up and watching videos, I pulled the disc brake assembly off to see what the condition of the pads were, and got only as far as the outer pad. The perimeter of the pad along the arc closest to the axle was still 3/16" thick, whereas the perimeter of the pad along the outer arc, closest to tire, was not even there anymore, and the metal of the brake shoe had eroded the rotor, (which I occasionally see today called the disc). I understand the rotor can be turned to true it up, and that too much turning may result in potential warping of the rotor. The condition of the pad/shoe and rotor seem ridiculously far from precise to me, and when I asked my car tinkering neighbor about it, he said this could be caused by air in the brake line, bad hose, or bad caliper. Strangely, the guy from orange and white auto parts supply house said it's normal, and to be getting wear on the brake pads is a good thing(?).
After reassembling, I heard that I should be able to work the caliper action with my hand when disconnected from the mount, and this action runs along the two caliper guide pins (which I've seen today caller slider pins). My caliper didn't seem too limber, though I didn't know to try this when it was free. I watched some vids of people taking these out and cleaning them up and using the toothpaste tube-sized tube of synthetic lube to free up this action. It seems easy enough.
There were three thin shims behind the one pad, but I read somewhere to use whichever, and however many shims come with the new pads.
I thought that I should do this myself, and do the left and right rear brakes and get a couple new rotors while I'm at it. (Seems like the job of turning a rotor should be comparable to the price of a new one, and even if not, I'd feel better about keeping up to date on both sides, and I should do something more than once to learn.
QUESTION 1: Is there anything wrong with getting new rotors and two sets of pads and maybe some slider pin lube and doing this myself? The only thing I read about now that causes me to consider not doing it is the "bedding" and "breaking in process" of the pads.
QUESTION 2: Which would be the best brand choice for pads and rotors? I've read a little about noise (now I see why I saw three thin shims, to keep it quieter) and OEMs (being better metal?).
I only typed this much to give an accurate idea of what I've read and what I saw when the abyss looked back.
Bri-on
My wife's '09 XB was exhibiting grinding noises aligned with wheel turn in left rear wheel, during and after breaking at low speeds as well as low accelerating speeds after stops.
I know little of cars and brakes, but took the wheel off, (needed to use the sledge on the rubber due to it being "frozen" on, as there was more rust than I expected back there) and had a look.
After reading up and watching videos, I pulled the disc brake assembly off to see what the condition of the pads were, and got only as far as the outer pad. The perimeter of the pad along the arc closest to the axle was still 3/16" thick, whereas the perimeter of the pad along the outer arc, closest to tire, was not even there anymore, and the metal of the brake shoe had eroded the rotor, (which I occasionally see today called the disc). I understand the rotor can be turned to true it up, and that too much turning may result in potential warping of the rotor. The condition of the pad/shoe and rotor seem ridiculously far from precise to me, and when I asked my car tinkering neighbor about it, he said this could be caused by air in the brake line, bad hose, or bad caliper. Strangely, the guy from orange and white auto parts supply house said it's normal, and to be getting wear on the brake pads is a good thing(?).
After reassembling, I heard that I should be able to work the caliper action with my hand when disconnected from the mount, and this action runs along the two caliper guide pins (which I've seen today caller slider pins). My caliper didn't seem too limber, though I didn't know to try this when it was free. I watched some vids of people taking these out and cleaning them up and using the toothpaste tube-sized tube of synthetic lube to free up this action. It seems easy enough.
There were three thin shims behind the one pad, but I read somewhere to use whichever, and however many shims come with the new pads.
I thought that I should do this myself, and do the left and right rear brakes and get a couple new rotors while I'm at it. (Seems like the job of turning a rotor should be comparable to the price of a new one, and even if not, I'd feel better about keeping up to date on both sides, and I should do something more than once to learn.
QUESTION 1: Is there anything wrong with getting new rotors and two sets of pads and maybe some slider pin lube and doing this myself? The only thing I read about now that causes me to consider not doing it is the "bedding" and "breaking in process" of the pads.
QUESTION 2: Which would be the best brand choice for pads and rotors? I've read a little about noise (now I see why I saw three thin shims, to keep it quieter) and OEMs (being better metal?).
I only typed this much to give an accurate idea of what I've read and what I saw when the abyss looked back.
Bri-on
