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Discussion Starter #1
I'm about to tackle replacing my rear hub assemblies tomorrow. Anybody know the torque specs for the 4 bolts that hold it in place?

For that matter, is there a factory manual anywhere I can download?

Thanks!
 

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what torque wrench are you using? sorry for the random question as you can see i work for Snap-On tools and i work in the torque department all we do is build torque wrenches mechanical and digital torque wrenches/tools
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks man! Looks like 67ft-lbs/90nm. Anybody know where I can get those images??

what torque wrench are you using? sorry for the random question as you can see i work for Snap-On tools and i work in the torque department all we do is build torque wrenches mechanical and digital torque wrenches/tools
It's the cheapy Harbor Freight 1/2" model. Fwiw, I've compared to my friend's significantly more expensive Craftsmen 1/2" and the HF was always within 2-3ft-lbs of his indicated reading.

I also have a Craftsmen 1/4" torque wrench.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So it took me waaay too long do this today. The reason:



165,000 miles and 6 winters of salt and corrosion meant those hubs were stuck on there good. After screwing around a bunch I put the hubs back on and hand threaded the hub bolts leaving a bit of room. Put the rotors and wheels back on and lowered the car back down. I then shook the car as hard as I could (without damaging the exterior) left to right a few times. Took everything back off and the hubs had moved just a smidge. Put a steel wheel back on and did a couple hard donkey kicks and got the hubs off finally.

Definitely a PITA to do this work, but I saved a ton in the process, yay!
 

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Quick write up?

What brand hubs did you replace them with? Cost?

Where you having the VSC BRAKE TRACTION control light issue?

I have to tackle this myself as I have the lights above on. Been putting it off.

Seems like prices on these hubs are all over the place.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hey man, I can try to recall as much as I can. Obviously I don't have pictures to go along so bear with me.

1. Jack the car up, put on stands and remove wheels, make sure the front wheels are secured with chocks and the parking brake is released. Be aware if you have any hub centric rings for aftermarket wheels and don't lose them!

2. Remove the brake caliper and caliper bracket, secure the caliper so that it doesn't hang from the brake line. I just used bungee cords wrapped through the spring and looped through the caliper.

3. The brake rotor should just come off at this point giving you a clear view of the hub assembly.

4. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to help pry the ABS connector off the back of the hub assembly. Do not just pull on the cable!

5. Remove the 4 bolts securing the assembly to the brake rain guard and rear beam axle. Apply rust penetrator liberally.

6. Next is the part that took me so long - actually removing the hubs. Mine were pretty well rusted on and took a lot of force to pop loose. The method that worked for me was to put the rotor and one of my OEM steel wheels (I run aftermarket wheels so I didn't want to risk damaging one) back on and thread the lugs back on. Doesn't have to be torqued down, just snug hand tight. Then get on your back and donkey-kick one side of the wheel to pop it off. Kick it like you're mad at it, it'll pop off eventually. And don't worry about alignment issues as you can't change the alignment on the rear of these cars (well without shims at least).

7. I took some sandpaper and tried to clean up the rust where the hub assembly mounts. Also, when reinstalling I liberally applied rust penetrator in the same area. Hopefully it'll come off more easily the next time.

8. Installation is reverse of disassembly. Torque for the 4 hub bolts is 67ft-lbs.

I ended up going with the Value-Pro assemblies from RockAuto. Yeah, they're really cheapo at $60/each, but now that I know how to do this I should be able to knock this out quick next time. I've had good luck with Rockauto's cheap brand parts and they should be built at least to OEM quality. The Timken or SKF hubs are the more desirable brand names, but I just didn't have the $600-$800 to blow on this repair. I did not have the VSC brake traction light issue. Carefully inspect the wires when you do this replacement then.
 

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Ok. Thanks for the info.

Do you know if you are supposed to use threadlocker on the bolts when putting back together?

Let me know how the hubs holdup.

I have the VSC light problem on mine. Been intermitent all winter. Now its on constantly. I have done brakes and I was pretty sure this wasnt too bad a job. Like yourself, I dont have 400-600 dollars to spend on this either so I will try the roackauto hubs.

Thanks.
 
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