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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So. My bills have recently been cut in half and my income has gone up, so of course I will be adding to my car. I'm wanting to amp my doors, 2 10's under te seats, and 1-2 12's. I have 700w and a 12 now with no issues. I will be doing the big 3 before anything else. I'm still learning all of this and I'm not sure when a high output alternator is needed. I want to not have to do that quite yet. Anyone with some knowledge would be great. I'm willing to do a second battery, capacitors, whatever. Any help is awesome
 

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I will be adding to my car...2 10's under the seats...


I assume you mean two 10" subwoofers under the front seats. Please be aware:
  • the driver's and front passenger's floorpans under the front seats are not the same shape so you will likely need different shaped boxes for each side
  • under the front passenger's seat is a seat occupancy computer that will need to be relocated higher up in the seat (a number of people, including me, have done this)
  • under the driver's seat mounted on the floor is a yaw sensor for the Traction Control System, if you put a sub there you will need to relocate that sensor to a protected and level position (I know of only one person who has done this)
  • you will have to sacrifice rear passenger toe space and/or block the heater ducts that run under the front seats to the rear passenger's toe spaces in order to obtain the volume specified by the manufacturer for housing 10" subs
For the above reasons I chose to run only a single 8" sub under the front passenger seat. Many others have done the same. Some have a single 10" sub under the front passenger seat, and only 1 (or perhaps a handful) have dual 10" subs under the front seats. Don't let that stop you, but just wanted you to have some foresight of what you are up against.

Have fun and keep us posted!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oh yea I've been doing the exploring. Both forums and in my car. I've considered 8", and am still open to it. The guy that will be building the boxes for me has put a few under passenger seats but not the drivers seat...yet. It's all new to me and I spend quite a bit on all of these forums. I actually took your idea for the lights in the vents. Speaking of which, you have issue with the glass on the lights vanishing? I know. Off topic, but I've been meaning to pm you about it
 

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...you have issue with the glass on the lights vanishing?
If you mean, has the glass lens on the Eagle Eye LEDs fallen off, then yes. It's happened on 3 out of the 12 LEDs. They all still light up but it's annoying. When I eventually replace them, I'll do all 12 and use some Krazy Glue and silicone sealer to keep the lenses on. In fact, that's what I should do now, for the remaining 9 good LEDs.
 

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Why in the world do you want to mix subwoofer sizes? Are you planning on using the appropriate crossovers?
Personally, I wouldn't. You can fit some decent 8" midbass drivers in the doors and you could mold some 3" drivers and tweeters in the A-pillars. I'd look into brands like Dynaudio, Hybrid Audio Technologies, and Hertz. Dynaudio and Hertz both offer a system with a passive crossover network. Hybrid Audio Technologies will require either an active crossover system, or building a custom passive setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I have a 12 in the back right now. And my whole thing is keeping the interior looking "stock." I don't want to cut panels and all that yet as it is still a lease and if something happens and I had to give it back, I don't want to have to replace the panels, pillars, all that. Everything I've done is removable shy of a few holes for some wires. I want to be able to take the box out but still have the bass when I take 4-5 people and all of our stuff on trips.
 

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I feel that the 10s under the seat is counter productive towards any efforts. But if you feel it's worth doing, then by all means do it. I have a pair of decent 6.5 components in my doors with the tweeters in the OEM location at the sail panel. I'm extremely happy with them. You could try to find a midrange driver with a better lower end extension or slightly larger, like the 6-3/4" sizing. Hertz makes an oversized 6.5" driver (i.e. the 6-3/4") and you can build your own speaker adapters out of MDF.

As far as alternators go (sorry to go off topic), I've been running a higher output tC unit with the NST pulley that's smaller than stock. It produces roughly 140amps, but that's at higher RPM. DC Power builds higher output alternators, as does Mechman. I'd opt for the DC Power unit, as I've been seriously looking at them as an option.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have 6.5 coax in the rear doors with the adapters from crutchfield. I want toget a nice component set for the fronts. Small panels like the sails I'm ok with cutting up since they don't cost much to replace.
 
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