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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am going to be buying an amp soon - probably a Polk PA660 (4 channel). From what I have been reading I need to buy an amp wiring kit which has a heavy gauge wire that goes through the firewall directly to the battery. Hopefully I will be getting a sub/amp this summer.

So here's the question... Do I have to run a separate wire to the battery for each amp or can I just run a single heavier wire through the firewall that I can connect both amps to? If so, what size should I run?
 

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Run a 4g power line from the battery thru the firewall. Connect it to a distribution block and split it into two 8g power lines. 2 amps - 2 separate power lines. You can then ground them separately with 8g or join them to a distribution block (two 8g in, one 4g out) and ground.

Make sure to fuse that power line about 6-12" from the battery terminal.
 

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Saw your post on Scikotics re: watts, etc.

Here's what I have. No issues so far running total system for two months now.

From the battery I have 4 gauge power wire (fused about 12" after the battery post) running through the firewall into the cabin. It's attached to a fused distribution block and split into two 8g power wires.

One 8g wire runs to a Boss Bass600 (RMS 200) powered sub/amp under the passenger seat.

The other 8G wire runs to a Blaupunkt THA-275 (120W RMS @ 2 ohm).

I ran new 16g speaker wire from the amp to the front door Infinity Kappa components. The stock wiring isn't in use and it's taped out of the way.

Both the amp and the sub are grounded with 8g wire under the e-brake center console.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info on your setup. I assume I can get a distribution block anywhere I can buy an amp wiring kit. I appreciate your advice.:D
 

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that 4ch amp would be better suited to run your full range speakers vs a sub. for a sub you would be better off getting a class D, 2ch or mono amp.

how much power are you running to those kappas? running new wires isnt really necessary if your not running high powered (and by that i mean 200w+) speakers in your doors. 16g is the same or close to the same as your stock wiring (i believe its 18g)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Don't we have to run new wires? There are only 2 wires (+/-) running to each door. Most aftermarket components have a separate crossover. So the stock wires would go to the xover and then 2 new sets of wires would go to each door. One pair to each component speaker.

In the case of an amp you would at least need to run new wires from the amp to under the dash to connect to the stock wires. Also since the stock wires actually have a plug on the end which would probably need to be removed for connecting to aftermarket speakers. I think it would be much easier to just run new wires so if you wanted to put the stock speakers back in to sell the car the factory plug and wires would still be intact.

I will be installing my 4-ch amp (I did get the 660) during spring break in about 2 weeks. If I'm wrong on any of this, please chime in before I install. :)
 

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t-taps and scotch locks will allow you to tap the wires to send the signal to the speakers. def don't chop off the factory plug! you will have to run wires to up behind the radio to then send the signal out to the doors. i used JL 9-wire to do this. It's all the wires for the speakers and an amp turn on wire (9 wires) makes it super easy
 

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2011 Scion xB Release Series 8.0 SoundWave
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make it simple, Buy a american international plug or a crappy metra 6 and 10 pin plug. this will make it easy. There is no major improvement to wiring direct to factory speakers of after market for that matter. Running thicker wire wont give you more sound at the lengths your running. I am MECP Certified, 17 yrs installation, former So. Cal IASCA Champion and a member of CEA. you can do it either way, just giving you options. If you wanna few places to get stuff cheap? Sonicelectronix.com, woofersetc.com, onlinecarstereo.com or ebay. I am a big fan of distro blocks for grounds or on caps too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
But don't you still need to at least run one new set of wires to each door? I could use the stock wire for the woofer/mid. But, a second wire would have to be run from the x-over to the tweeter.
 

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go into the door and do the xover there with the tweeter. I have installed it this way for years. Sure you can upgrade the wires, but only an o-scope might see the improvement in sound q
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
go into the door and do the xover there with the tweeter. I have installed it this way for years. Sure you can upgrade the wires, but only an o-scope might see the improvement in sound q
Where do you fasten the x-over inside the door? I didn't really see anywhere obvious. I also have an aversion to drilling holes in my car. I worry (probably unjustified) that a new hole won't have paint on it and the fresh surface will rust.

How do you keep the x-over from getting wet from water dripping down the glass? Along the same line...do you use those foam speaker covers used to keep the water out of door speakers? I was guessing that is the purpose of the wide plastic shield on our stock speakers.

...I was questioning the number of wires not the size.

Thanks for sharing your wisdom and experience!:cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
New amp install question!

I think I'm going to mount the amp under the driver's seat. I know heat can be an issue with amps. Will the heat duct under the seat be a problem blowing hot air on the amp? Maybe it won't be an issue since it will be cold outside anyway when I turn the heat on.

Should I build a little riser out of MDF to lift it over the vent?
 

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New amp install question!

I think I'm going to mount the amp under the driver's seat. I know heat can be an issue with amps. Will the heat duct under the seat be a problem blowing hot air on the amp? Maybe it won't be an issue since it will be cold outside anyway when I turn the heat on.

Should I build a little riser out of MDF to lift it over the vent?
I've Hung amps from the seat itself if it'll fit between the rails without getting in the way that way It's up off the floor away from vents and water
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I got it installed yesterday. I built a shelf out of 1/2" MDF. I fastened the MDF to the seat brackets so it is several inches up off the floor. That's partly to keep the vent from blowing directly on the amp and partly because I don't want to drill holes in the floor of the car to fasten the amp down. I don't want to drill holes in the body and I don't want to have to worry about accidentally drilling into a gas or brake line.

I drove my xB tonight and came up with a new issue. There is a bright blue LED on the front of the amp that shines in the driver's footwell. I keep my LED's red to match the rs6. I guess I'll have to cover it with a piece of tape. :p
 
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