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yes and no on caps. if you have a REALLY big system then you should go with a battery designed for car audio, such as a kinetik battery or something of the like. midrange systems (2000-3000W or so) can benefit from a capacitor or 2, i have 2 5 farads in my car and im running in the 3K range. if i didnt have them my battery and alternator wouldnt be able to take it. the caps are charged and the system draws from them quickly, which is what they need. the idea of the cap is that a battery is a slow draw device, like running your lights or something. they dont draw different amounts of power at different times like when bass hits, so when the amp tries to pull that power from a battery it CAN damage it. will it all the time, no, but the possibility is there. the caps charge like a normal battery but discharge quickly as the amps need it. so yes they are useful and not completely useless, but there are better things, like the optima or kinetik batteries. for your system you should be fine tho.
 

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A Flux Capacitor?
 

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no, you don't need one. they're useless from what Ive read and what everyone I know who is big into car audio says.

Get a yellow top, can't go wrong there.
Precisely. Not a single person I know of, that competes, uses any type of capacitor. We all use a high output alternator and more batteries.
Yellow tops are pretty meh. If you're looking into a good aftermarket battery on a budget, look into the Sears Diehard Platinums. To my knowledge, they're made in the same factory as Odyssey batteries. :cheers:
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Precisely. Not a single person I know of, that competes, uses any type of capacitor. We all use a high output alternator and more batteries.
Yellow tops are pretty meh. If you're looking into a good aftermarket battery on a budget, look into the Sears Diehard Platinums. To my knowledge, they're made in the same factory as Odyssey batteries. :cheers:
thanks everyone..I'll look into the battery you suggested..might go and get one tomorrow..:)
 

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For that small of a system, you wont need anything unless your current battery wont even turn over the car... I had 250w rms hooked up to my old aircooled vw and that wouldn't dim the lights. I have 300/2 rms in my 2010 Xb now with stock battery and no issues (but the horrid signal to noise ratio of the Alpine "upgrade" YUK!)
I say hook it up, if it plays without dimming the lights or cutting out due to low voltage, you are good.
 

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For that small of a system, you wont need anything unless your current battery wont even turn over the car... I had 250w rms hooked up to my old aircooled vw and that wouldn't dim the lights. I have 300/2 rms in my 2010 Xb now with stock battery and no issues (but the horrid signal to noise ratio of the Alpine "upgrade" YUK!)
I say hook it up, if it plays without dimming the lights or cutting out due to low voltage, you are good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Finally put everything in..went with a Sony XAV 622..MB Quart RLP 10" 300w RMS..Lightning Audio 300w 4 Ch. Amp..Polk Audio in the fronts..havent change the rear doors yet..saving up for another pair of Polk Audios..thanks everyone for the help!! :cheers:
 

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i have a 900watt rms running 2 12's with no problem no dimming what so ever. i still got stock door speakers and everything stills sounds amazing. too bad about 3, 250$$$ noise violations for the sound. they said they heard me before they saw anycars on the block lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Sweet..i been thinkin about adding another sub..the MB Quart hits really nice but i want a little more thump..but the noise violation tickets are not cheap..and i think im gonna wait until they find a cure for tinitus(sp?)..lol
 
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