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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Really wish there was more than just one 12v plug outlet in the box. Can figure out a place to mount a set of three. is it possible to mount it in line with the factory one under the shifter. I have a manual and it looks like there might be enough room.

Side note any way to make it so it doesn't run from the ignition just straight battery
 

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You can put them anywhere you want. If you are comfortable drilling a hole where you want to mount them, then you are golden.

As far as wiring, there is an easy way and a correct way. Easy way is to just run them to the battery, I wouldn't suggest this. The correct way would be to find a non-switched power source and wire it into that. They make fuses that have wire leads on them, that would be easiest, I think. You can just plug the fuse in until you find one that has constant power.
 

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Putting more 12v sources in the shifter console is no problem,there is plenty of room. After removing the console surround cover (already posted on this forum), you'll see where you might want to locate these outlets.The only thing is, what are you going to power and how many amps does it draw.The wires in the existing wire harness are not big enough to handle a lot of amps,so heavier ones would have to be run with an inline fuse of the right size installed at the battery,of course.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The only thing is, what are you going to power and how many amps does it draw.The wires in the existing wire harness are not big enough to handle a lot of amps,so heavier ones would have to be run with an inline fuse of the right size installed at the battery,of course.
any suggestions on how to do this. would want to go through the firewall and have it look clean. prefer to have it look as factory as possible
 

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any suggestions on how to do this. would want to go through the firewall and have it look clean. prefer to have it look as factory as possible
I powered my subwoofer amp by running a power wire from the battery (with a fuse of course) into the left front fender then into the driver's door pillar. Near the door hinges is a rubber plug. I removed the plug, cut a hole in the bottom of the plug, then reinstalled the plug and ran my power wire thru it to the amp.

I didn't even have to pull the fender liner, I simply reached in from the engine compartment. There are already a number of loops and anchor points along the way to secure the wire.
 

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Many people also run power through the large rubber grommet in the firewall above the brake pedal.

Someone on here (I don't remember exactly who) ran a power wire and installed a whole extra fuse block. That way they could easily tap into it several times, everything was fused, and I think it would look more oem like you want.


I found the post: http://www.newscionxb.com/131-audio-electronics/7706-addition-secondary-fuse-block.html
 

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Sounds like a great opportunity to accidentally run down the battery. I suggest keeping it ignition key switched (accessory).
I agree that you should be cautious about what gets hooked up directly to the battery. Some things though you want to work without the key like an interior cargo light or a glove-compartment light. My HD radio tuner, for example, requires a constant power source or it will lose the station presets everytime you turn off the car.

It might be useful to have 2 small fuse blocks. One constant on and one switched.
 

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I agree that you should be cautious about what gets hooked up directly to the battery. Some things though you want to work without the key like an interior cargo light or a glove-compartment light. My HD radio tuner, for example, requires a constant power source or it will lose the station presets everytime you turn off the car.

It might be useful to have 2 small fuse blocks. One constant on and one switched.
FWIW: The HU settings and car ECUs are always powered (thank GOD). However, the interior illumination (including my glove box) depends on the exterior lighting switch (except for the timed dome light which illuminates whenever the doors are opened). This, in fact, is industry standard behavior for glove box illumination.
 
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