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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I'm looking at getting HID's for my XB 2.5 and in the endless search for what ones to get and reading reviews I came across this....http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html
Now I know our cars come with halogen bulbs but it is not a conventional reflector housing. Does anyone know if any of this applies to our type of housing? I'm not sure what it's called but we have those round thingys that you see in cars that come with HID from the factory. Any one have any input on this topic? Also I'm looking for a slight bluish color but not obnoxious, I've read that ALL cars come with 4.3k lights from factory, and my dad has a newer bmw and has HID's and they have the bluish tint that I'm looking for but according to what I read if it's 4.3k it should be white with a hint of yellow and that doesn't seem to be the case as I see white with a blue tint. I'm looking at 6k but if his are 4.3k then I'd imagine 6k might be really blue and 5k might be what I'm looking for. Anyways thanks for reading my post I know I kinda ramble on haha. Love to hear you're input! Thanks guys and gals!
 

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The projector low beams in our XBs deal ok with HID PIP kits. The only issue is with the weird watermelon wedge shaped squirrel finder glare. Just make sure to spend the money and get a decent set. Plan to spend around $150 for a reliable kit. Do not waste the money on Xentec, OPT7 and DDM. A local company here in Portland Oregon called Headlights Northwest started selling a kit that they had made for them that includes the newer CANBUS style Hylux Ballasts along with good CNLight bulbs. Both component brands are of high quality. Another good brand is the Morimoto kits from theretrofitsource.com. They have their own custom ballasts and bulbs that rival many OEM setups.

As far as lighting color, while 4300k bulbs produce the most output, it really comes down to the ballast that is powering them. A ballast that struggles putting out at least 35 watts to the bulb will make the bulb not fully activate, making them appear bluer than their "spec". I personally like the 5000k and 5500k bulbs as they seem to be the purest white. Anything over 6000k means you are actually putting out less light and you venture into a deeper blue and eventually purple color that cops tend to pull people over for. As for fog lights I perfer a nice 3000k output.
 

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55watt HIDs are not safe for our projectors. The bulbs get too hot and end out burning/hazing the projector bowl due to the bowl being a bit on the smaller size. Just get a reputable 35watt kit. ^_^
I have been in contact with DDM about their new canbus ultra kits, but they will not say whether or not the ballast are made by Hylux. To me, this means they are afraid to say that they are Hylux knock-offs.
 

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Since they sell the cheapo Apexone bulbs for $35 a pair ($10 off of ebay) and dare not show pictures of their ballasts or almost any product on the site, I'd say no. Probably just a super cheap kit with an insane mark-up.

One thing to look out for is that you want an HID bulb that has the return wire located on the BOTTOM when installed. If the return wire is on the top when installed it will create a thick shadow in the output that actually blocks light and you end out with this this dark line in the middle of your headlight's projection. Trust me, its not good looking and very much hampers the light output.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yea I have heard about the return wore issue. But as you said. They rarely show pictures and I have yet to see a picture with them installed so I don't really know how to judge where the return wire will end up being when it's just a picture of a set of bulbs, there is no reference as far as how with will sit once installed. And the pics I do find usually have the bulbs in the plastic caring they are shipped in. Any thing I need to know about flickering? Also was her set from retro a plug and play? Thanks a lot guys. Also I did do a search before posting this but so many of the posts are kinda all over the place as far as info goes. They don't seem to stay on topic very long before someone jacks it with out any real info making it on to it.
 

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Looking at the bulb, if the return wire connects to the base in line with one of the locking fingers, it will not work properly and you will get that projected shadow. If the return wire lines up between 2 of the locking fingers, you are golden. As far as knowing which shop has the right bulbs, simply let them know the situation and ask if the return wire lines up between 2 locking fingers or lines up with one of them. ^_^

Morimoto is an excellent brand, but I'm hearing complaints about their new XB bulbs taking quite awhile burning in to produce the correct color and after burn-in, some pairs of bulbs are not matching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
By burning in you mean when you install them and turn them on for the first time letting the stay on for 20 mins or so? I've just read so many mixed opinions. I don't wanna spend 150 and it be crap when I could have got ones that worked fine for 70. I've seen plenty of success stories with Ddm but also bad sides too. But I guess they sell so many, some have got to work lol. As far as flickering. Is it worth buying the wires that "prevent" that or is it just something else to sell?
 

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By burn-in I'm talking the bulb operating for many hours until it settles into it spec'ed color temp. The hours don't have to be consecutive, but I've heard anywhere from 50 to 100 hours for some Morimoto XB bulbs to reach their spec'ed color temp. I don't know if they have resolved this issue, but realistically for $40 for a pair of their bulbs, its a great deal as they are VERY well designed and manufactured bulbs. DDM has their new Ultra series bulbs which I am currently using, but I just don't know about them. They are certainly brighter than a standard Apexone bulb, but they don't seem to align very well and one bulbs shoots out a weird SUPER bright beam of light in an odd direction. I don't think I will be buying these again. If I were to get new bulbs it would either be the Moromoto XB H11b in the 5500k color temp or my local shop and get some CNLight 5500k bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
That's strange the bit about th me beam of light. I can't find Morimoto XB bulbs for $40, I wish there weren't so many options (first time I've said that about this car) on that topic it seems strange that there are so many more parts for the xb2 opposed to the xb2.5. I'm also on hunt for fogs but didn't realize I had to buy the whole bottom grille. Of course it's like $400 from Toyota.
 

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https://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/bulbs/morimoto-h11b-bulbs.html#.VneBs_krLmE
There is a link to the $40 Morimoto XB H11b bulbs.

As far as the fog lights are concerned,
2011 2015 Scion XB Chrome Clear Front Bumper Driving Fog Lights Bulbs Switch | eBay
You don't need a whole new lower grille, just the fog lights with their housings. The grill has lines marked on it where you are to cut the slats to get everything to fit. The kit I linked to is quite nice with a glass lens. I'm gonna get one of these sets in the next month. While this kit doesn't come with the OEM switch, you can shop around on the forums to find someone selling one or pick it up from the stealership or a salvage yard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Awesome! Thanks a lot! I've always hated anything to do with wires lol. I'm sure hooking them. Up can't be too difficult. That's why I was curious if hid are plug and play fog lights should just be power to battery. Find a ground. Tuck wires and connect. Right? I'm sure I can find a tutorial on YouTube
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Also does the Morimoto kit that was linked include the ballasts? From the description it just says 2 bulbs a warranty and alcohol wipes.... I still need ballasts lol. Oh yea and idk if y'all checked out my other post asking questions about rims and offset...I got some new shoes for the xB! Had to lace her up!
Also the new opt7 now have "canbus" ballasts. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DP...qid=1451021100&sr=1-33&pi=AC_SX220_SY330_QL65
 

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The bulb you listed is the correct type, but I would suggest that you contact the seller to make sure the bulb they are selling is exactly like the one pictured. Some online companies change their product from what is pictures due to supply. The link I posted to the Morimoto bulbs are indeed just for the bulbs....like you asked for. If you want inexpensive GOOD ballasts, look into the Fast Bright F3 or Hylux ballasts. They are both high quality units that operate flawlessly and have a proven track record. Seriously though, for the cost of a couple of good ballasts and a set of Morimoto bulbs, you will be paying almost the same as just getting a full Morimoto kit.

As for Opt7, I have tried a few of their kits and stand alone bulbs and I could NOT get a decent product from them. The ballasts I kept getting would not properly ignite the bulbs (having to turn the lights on and off a couple of times to get them to fire up a bulb) and the bulbs were ALL crooked. NOT worth the money in my book.
 
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