How does my alignment look?
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Well looking at that it appears they did a front end alignment but did nothing out at the rear. Not surprising as that is what most shops do when you have a solid beam axle with no adjustment ability to it. What needs to be done in install some alignment shims in the rear to get rid of the toe that was created by lowering the car. Moog and SPC are two companies I can think of off hand that make them.
How do the numbers looks for the front? After the alignment I feel there's still a slight drift to the left when the steering wheel is straight/neutral. Also, there seems to be more effort turning the steering wheel left vs right and when going in for a sharp turn the car understeers more than it did before the alignment.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but for FF vehicles shouldn't the toe be slightly negative?
Correct me if I'm wrong, but for FF vehicles shouldn't the toe be slightly negative?
Here's the confusing part, based Toyota's specs (see pic), the range for front toe is 0.00º - 0.17º. This alignment was done by Toyota service dept. so I'm assuming the ranges listed on that sheet are Toyota recommended specs.
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I would get the rear end into spec nbefore trying to do more with the front. Right now you have about 3 times the negative toe in the rear than you have positive in the front so the front and rear ends are actually fighting each other. You have to remember that once you lower a vehicle the "factory specs" are only a guideline. The vehicle will handle differently and you might have to tweak things a little bit more to get it where it feels right for you.
Basically the more negative camber you have the better you can hold in the corners but at the expense of wearing the inside edge of the tire quicker. I had my fronts set at about 1* negative on the front for awhile when I was doing canyon runs twice a day for my commute but even that was wearing out the inside edge more than the outside. If I was to do it again I wouldn't go over -0.5*.
A greater improvement for corning is stiffening up the chassis. I ended up goin with a full set of braces from TB Performance Products and it actually induced oversteer under hard braking in turns so I added a front strut brace to dial it back a bit.
Here's SPCs install tutorial video.
75200 / 75400 / 75800 EZ Shim Installation Video - Specialty Products Company - YouTube
It explains how they work pretty well.
75200 / 75400 / 75800 EZ Shim Installation Video - Specialty Products Company - YouTube
It explains how they work pretty well.
Looks like a lot of work. I'm worried about bringing the car back to the dealership because this looks like something they won't install properly but at the same time I need to let them know because of the TRD parts they installed, it caused my rear toe to go out of spec just so it's documented.
A friend of mine has his rear set with a slight toe-in and the front with a slight toe-out. I can definitely feel the difference in cornering with his setup. While my box is understeering at the slightest turns.
A friend of mine has his rear set with a slight toe-in and the front with a slight toe-out. I can definitely feel the difference in cornering with his setup. While my box is understeering at the slightest turns.
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Take it back and tell them to fix it. If the car is new enough, and still has the warranty, they could warranty the whole axle.
Or you could install the shims yourself. I'm planning on installing shims myself.
Or you could install the shims yourself. I'm planning on installing shims myself.
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161 Posts
That's because without the shims it can't lol.
This has already happened to another user, the dealer un installed the TRD springs.
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Then you can tell them that you straight up don't want the car. :cheers:
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