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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
nice!!! and functional....i want one.
Glad you like it :)! It's one of those things I probably won't really use a whole lot since I don't often need to dive into the glove box, especially when dark out, but it's something I'm used to having with other vehicles and so it's nice to have now. Blows the bejeezus out of the OE illumination in my '90 Eclipse :)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Trevor, your install looks great! Now, how 'bout some details. What's the angle size,where did you get the switch & light strip, what did you hook it up to,and where did you mount it? Of all the mod's I have done, putting a light in the glove box is still on my list along with lights under the dash for the foot wells.
Thanks :)! The aluminum angle is 3/4"x1/16" thick. The pin switch is a generic hood open type bought via Ebay. The LEDs came from SuperBrightLEDs.com and were cut from a 19.7" length of adhesive backed natural white 3526SMD (model NFLS). The power pigtail attaches to the dark green ILL+ wire at the OE radio front-door-speaker connector C1 (pin 10), or if you've an aftermarket radio, you can alternatively use the appropriate wire in the adapter harness. The second photo above shows the mount -- the two steel braces above the glove box, holes closest the passenger seat. The hardware is two each of the shortest standard 7mm bolt, nut, and split ring lock washer (skip washers). The trickiest part is probably installing the hardware since finger access behind the braces is very tight.

FWIW -- If I were doing it again, I'd probably move the switch another inch to the right, but no biggie.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The advantage of the pin switch is that it can be exactly adjusted for when the light activates (plus it simplifies design). Mine is adjusted so that when the door is closed, the contact is just barely broken plus a tad more. This results in any degree of door open causing box illumination -- that's something that just happens to appeal to me. The downside is the pin does steal a little headroom from the top of the opening (I tried to minimize it), which is why I'm currently favoring moving it out another inch.

Still, I guess there are any number of possibilities for switching and I think it would be neat to see what folks come up with. What I built might be useful generally for at least the illumination, the black wire can always be run to some other switching alternative :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I decided the pin switch would be better located further off to the side, so I moved it out roughly 3" further. Definitely better now, though at first I had clearance issues between the side of the glove box and the aluminum bracket -- guess I went 1/8" too far :)!

 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
After seeing your install,I was looking for some other way to attach the angle because you said that getting the nuts up over the mounting holes was a problem. I found what might be a solution "speed nuts". They are flat pieces that snap on to the metal supports with the holes already in them so the bolts can thread into them. They are at Lowes, in the hardware sec. drawers with specialty hardware. You just snap them place before mounting the angle.
What's tricky is getting both the split lock washer and the nut properly installed using feel alone. Installing just a nut is much easier, but a reliable electrical ground is needed in addition to a secure mount. After doing it two or three times I got the hang of it and am much quicker now, but even so, it's hardly a snap :p!

If the speed nut provides solid grounding and mounting while negligibly lowering the bracket, then should be a good solution. Clearance between the bottom of the bracket and the glove box rear during box removal/install is somewhat limited, but definitely adequate with direct bolting. It's an interesting idea, will have to take a look :)!

looks awesome! very cool idea and very good execution.
Thanks much :)!

I expect some might prefer to simplify a bit further by using a single strip of nine LEDs instead of my approach of jumpering two strips of three. It would obviously also provide brighter illumination, but I find the six works well for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I took quick measurements and looking at Lowes speed nuts, I think either the 1/4" flat (sits in the "U" and would need to be positioned by finger tip) or the #10x3/8" J with a narrow front-to-back join (clipped over the front edge of the center hole) would fit. Either would require smaller bracket holes than mine, so I don't plan to try them. Hopefully, speed nuts will be sufficiently secure for this (as in no sideways shifting), so hopefully Dale will be looking at that :)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Trevor, what is the length of the angle? I did a rough tape measuring and it seems to be ~14". The holes measure 6 1/8" center to center. While doing all of this,I decided to do the cabin air filter thing. Got a furnace filter from the local home center,cut it to dim.'s and it is now installed. I got a new length of angle (couldn't find my other piece), is 1/16" tk.x1/2x1/2 and will most likely hold the pin switch better.
You think 1/2" width will hold the pin switch better than 3/4"? Well, I wouldn't be sure of the clearances myself, but whatever works for you :)! I don't know how you're measuring, but if you look at my first two photos, you'll see my bracket only extends to the left edge of the left brace. Your measurement suggests you're going further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks Trevor, I looked up your pic's again, and saw the length of the angle. The 14" was the distance of the glove box opening, not your angle angle length, my bad. I was wrong on the dim.'s of the angle that I got, it is 3/4x3/4x1/16". I'm glad that I didn't cut anything yesterday,I would've not been happy with the results. I'm thinking about getting the 12v supply from the side mirror on the right. Today, I'm going to take off the kick panel, and take some circuit readings with a multi-meter. I don't really want to get into the upper dash and the right kick panel seems to be the easiest location.
I just measured mine and I suggest a bracket length of 10-3/4" starting at the left edge of the left brace. That should provide the needed clearance from the right edge of the glove box.

The universal standard for glove box lighting is control by the light switch (power active whenever tail lights are on), and so my strong recommendation is to conform to standard. If you're not going to, then I suggest using the "cigar lighter" circuit, however, staying standard is definitely best. Short cuts tend to result in spaghetti wiring where it's harder to track problems, especially for any unfortunate who may happen to later purchase your car.

It's not difficult to remove the radio to access the dark green wire leading to pin 10 of connector C1 (front door speaker connector). The instructions start on page two of the navigation HU install PDF within the accessories folder in the xB2 techfiles download. If you don't have an appropriate plastic pry tool, pick up a set from Harbor Freight (item #95214).
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 · (Edited)
I like it, I think i'll copy it
I think that you correct with the wiring. The power mirrors only work when the ign. switch is on. Thanks for the measurement on the angle. My pin switch is due on Thursday or Friday so I can look for the green wire before it gets here. I'll order the LED strip next week and finish this project up. I just installed the rear LED's and will put the load resistors in tomorrow.
That's great guys :)! I suggest doing a hardware trial install (including the switch, but not the LEDs) to make sure everything's correct -- best not to hit any snags after the LEDs are installed. Any further questions, I'll help as best I can :)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Trevor,before I go into tapping the green wire on the radio, I'm wondering if the LED's are affected by the dash dimmer? At night, I don't drive with the dash fully lit. Does that fact become a problem?
Best way to evaluate that is to study the EWD PDF diagrams. However, I've already done that (part of my own homework), and ILL+ isn't effected by the dash illumination potentiometer. ILL- is, but that's on the negative return path, not the power source ILL+.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Update-
I think I've found the 12v supply for the glove box lite. On the right side kick panel, there is a circuit for the "lock-unlock" switch in the door. It is constant and close to where the lite is to be. I'm going to check it with a multi-meter and find that connector/wire. I'll let everyone know.
Guess what, lock-unlock is for the door lock-unlock solenoid, not illumination :)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Thanks Trevor. That'll really help. I just got a response from V-LED's about my last purchase (front running dual color LED's) and they are offering LED strips some on sale. I got the 6" long 6K strip for ~$3.99 + shipping. My biggest problem is getting the glove box back in place after removing it. It is rather balky aligning the hinges. It takes several tries to get them in the right position without rubbing the opening or making the latches function.
Just look closely at the box hinges and the mating slots -- at how they work together. If you take your time and look closely, most of this stuff gets much simpler :).
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
1. When taking out the radio,did you have any problem getting to the lower two bolts?
2. How long is the harness with the connector on it? I'd like not to disconnect since i have
a custom start screen installed and station presets.
The bolts were no problem, but the harness doesn't provide a lot of extension. However, it provides enough :)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
I did as you said. Put the bracket in for a trail fit.The switch would not open until I added an extension to the plunger (it was adjusted all the way out). The item I used is called a thread protector. It's a molded sleeve that fits over the plunger cap (5/16"). I'm going to see if this works,if not, a mod addition to the bracket will be made to move the switch closer to the glove box door.
That's a function of the mounting of the bracket to the braces. It needs to be located as near the seat as practical. I suspect that's the problem with using speed nuts.

I found another 12v source for the glove box lite. Instead of the radio, I opened up where the three controls on the lower panel console are located. Found the dark green wire going to them, and tapped into it.After checking with a multi-meter, and confirming that there is voltage,I put everything back together. Thank God I didn't have to disconnect the radio.
I checked the schematic and C30 pin 5 is the correct dark green wire at the rheostat. It's not clear exactly what is on pin 8 (though same color).
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
For anyone who wishes to attack this project, I just want to recommend test fits at every stage to make sure you achieve a successful install. Mounting hole location and sizing is very important and so be certain to take your time. When you're satisfied the hardware works as needed, then turn to the LEDs and wiring, but definitely leave that to last. If your initial efforts result in the need to redo the bracket, you don't want to have already installed the LEDs.
 
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