Posts by TrevorS
1 - 17 of 22 Posts
Glad you like it
! It's one of those things I probably won't really use a whole lot since I don't often need to dive into the glove box, especially when dark out, but it's something I'm used to having with other vehicles and so it's nice to have now. Blows the bejeezus out of the OE illumination in my '90 Eclipse !Thanks dude -- personally, I like it
!Thanks
! The aluminum angle is 3/4"x1/16" thick. The pin switch is a generic hood open type bought via Ebay. The LEDs came from SuperBrightLEDs.com and were cut from a 19.7" length of adhesive backed natural white 3526SMD (model NFLS). The power pigtail attaches to the dark green ILL+ wire at the OE radio front-door-speaker connector C1 (pin 10), or if you've an aftermarket radio, you can alternatively use the appropriate wire in the adapter harness. The second photo above shows the mount -- the two steel braces above the glove box, holes closest the passenger seat. The hardware is two each of the shortest standard 7mm bolt, nut, and split ring lock washer (skip washers). The trickiest part is probably installing the hardware since finger access behind the braces is very tight.FWIW -- If I were doing it again, I'd probably move the switch another inch to the right, but no biggie.
The advantage of the pin switch is that it can be exactly adjusted for when the light activates (plus it simplifies design). Mine is adjusted so that when the door is closed, the contact is just barely broken plus a tad more. This results in any degree of door open causing box illumination -- that's something that just happens to appeal to me. The downside is the pin does steal a little headroom from the top of the opening (I tried to minimize it), which is why I'm currently favoring moving it out another inch.
Still, I guess there are any number of possibilities for switching and I think it would be neat to see what folks come up with. What I built might be useful generally for at least the illumination, the black wire can always be run to some other switching alternative.
Still, I guess there are any number of possibilities for switching and I think it would be neat to see what folks come up with. What I built might be useful generally for at least the illumination, the black wire can always be run to some other switching alternative
.I decided the pin switch would be better located further off to the side, so I moved it out roughly 3" further. Definitely better now, though at first I had clearance issues between the side of the glove box and the aluminum bracket -- guess I went 1/8" too far !
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What's tricky is getting both the split lock washer and the nut properly installed using feel alone. Installing just a nut is much easier, but a reliable electrical ground is needed in addition to a secure mount. After doing it two or three times I got the hang of it and am much quicker now, but even so, it's hardly a snap
!If the speed nut provides solid grounding and mounting while negligibly lowering the bracket, then should be a good solution. Clearance between the bottom of the bracket and the glove box rear during box removal/install is somewhat limited, but definitely adequate with direct bolting. It's an interesting idea, will have to take a look
!Thanks much
!I expect some might prefer to simplify a bit further by using a single strip of nine LEDs instead of my approach of jumpering two strips of three. It would obviously also provide brighter illumination, but I find the six works well for me.
I took quick measurements and looking at Lowes speed nuts, I think either the 1/4" flat (sits in the "U" and would need to be positioned by finger tip) or the #10x3/8" J with a narrow front-to-back join (clipped over the front edge of the center hole) would fit. Either would require smaller bracket holes than mine, so I don't plan to try them. Hopefully, speed nuts will be sufficiently secure for this (as in no sideways shifting), so hopefully Dale will be looking at that !
!You think 1/2" width will hold the pin switch better than 3/4"? Well, I wouldn't be sure of the clearances myself, but whatever works for you
! I don't know how you're measuring, but if you look at my first two photos, you'll see my bracket only extends to the left edge of the left brace. Your measurement suggests you're going further.I just measured mine and I suggest a bracket length of 10-3/4" starting at the left edge of the left brace. That should provide the needed clearance from the right edge of the glove box.
The universal standard for glove box lighting is control by the light switch (power active whenever tail lights are on), and so my strong recommendation is to conform to standard. If you're not going to, then I suggest using the "cigar lighter" circuit, however, staying standard is definitely best. Short cuts tend to result in spaghetti wiring where it's harder to track problems, especially for any unfortunate who may happen to later purchase your car.
It's not difficult to remove the radio to access the dark green wire leading to pin 10 of connector C1 (front door speaker connector). The instructions start on page two of the navigation HU install PDF within the accessories folder in the xB2 techfiles download. If you don't have an appropriate plastic pry tool, pick up a set from Harbor Freight (item #95214).
That's great guys
! I suggest doing a hardware trial install (including the switch, but not the LEDs) to make sure everything's correct -- best not to hit any snags after the LEDs are installed. Any further questions, I'll help as best I can !Best way to evaluate that is to study the EWD PDF diagrams. However, I've already done that (part of my own homework), and ILL+ isn't effected by the dash illumination potentiometer. ILL- is, but that's on the negative return path, not the power source ILL+.
Guess what, lock-unlock is for the door lock-unlock solenoid, not illumination
!Just look closely at the box hinges and the mating slots -- at how they work together. If you take your time and look closely, most of this stuff gets much simpler
.The bolts were no problem, but the harness doesn't provide a lot of extension. However, it provides enough
!That's a function of the mounting of the bracket to the braces. It needs to be located as near the seat as practical. I suspect that's the problem with using speed nuts.
I checked the schematic and C30 pin 5 is the correct dark green wire at the rheostat. It's not clear exactly what is on pin 8 (though same color).
For anyone who wishes to attack this project, I just want to recommend test fits at every stage to make sure you achieve a successful install. Mounting hole location and sizing is very important and so be certain to take your time. When you're satisfied the hardware works as needed, then turn to the LEDs and wiring, but definitely leave that to last. If your initial efforts result in the need to redo the bracket, you don't want to have already installed the LEDs.
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