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Trevor, your install looks great! Now, how 'bout some details. What's the angle size,where did you get the switch & light strip, what did you hook it up to,and where did you mount it? Of all the mod's I have done, putting a light in the glove box is still on my list along with lights under the dash for the foot wells.
 

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Thanks for the info. I'll be doing this when we get into summer and warmer weather. Instead of the pin switch,I'm thinking about a magnetic switch from house alarms.There is a local electronics store that has those type switches. BTW, while at this store,I found a push type switch that fits the openings in the knee panel on the left. The openings measure .88" wide x1.32" high. The switch measures .88" wide x1.10" high. I'm not sure if the grip is deep enough, but I will get one to find out.
 

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After seeing your install,I was looking for some other way to attach the angle because you said that getting the nuts up over the mounting holes was a problem. I found what might be a solution "speed nuts". They are flat pieces that snap on to the metal supports with the holes already in them so the bolts can thread into them. They are at Lowes, in the hardware sec. drawers with specialty hardware. You just snap them place before mounting the angle.
 

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Update- The "speed nuts" were found at Home Depot. Description= speed nut #8 plain. They don't snap into place,but they do fit into the "u" shaped channel and will not spin when installing the screws. I ordered the pin switch from ebay for $.99, the shipping cost is more (~$1.99) but I couldn't find it locally. I've got a piece of 1/16x1/4x1/2 alum. angle left over from an other project, so I'll use it for the bracket.
 

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Trevor, what is the length of the angle? I did a rough tape measuring and it seems to be ~14". The holes measure 6 1/8" center to center. While doing all of this,I decided to do the cabin air filter thing. Got a furnace filter from the local home center,cut it to dim.'s and it is now installed. I got a new length of angle (couldn't find my other piece), is 1/16" tk.x1/2x1/2 and will most likely hold the pin switch better.
 

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You think 1/2" width will hold the pin switch better than 3/4"? Well, I wouldn't be sure of the clearances myself, but whatever works for you :)! I don't know how you're measuring, but if you look at my first two photos, you'll see my bracket only extends to the left edge of the left brace. Your measurement suggests you're going further.
Thanks Trevor, I looked up your pic's again, and saw the length of the angle. The 14" was the distance of the glove box opening, not your angle angle length, my bad. I was wrong on the dim.'s of the angle that I got, it is 3/4x3/4x1/16". I'm glad that I didn't cut anything yesterday,I would've not been happy with the results. I'm thinking about getting the 12v supply from the side mirror on the right. Today, I'm going to take off the kick panel, and take some circuit readings with a multi-meter. I don't really want to get into the upper dash and the right kick panel seems to be the easiest location.
 

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I think that you correct with the wiring. The power mirrors only work when the ign. switch is on. Thanks for the measurement on the angle. My pin switch is due on Thursday or Friday so I can look for the green wire before it gets here. I'll order the LED strip next week and finish this project up. I just installed the rear LED's and will put the load resistors in tomorrow.
 

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Trevor,before I go into tapping the green wire on the radio, I'm wondering if the LED's are affected by the dash dimmer? At night, I don't drive with the dash fully lit. Does that fact become a problem?
 

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Trevor,before I go into tapping the green wire on the radio, I'm wondering if the LED's are affected by the dash dimmer? At night, I don't drive with the dash fully lit. Does that fact become a problem?
Update-
I think I've found the 12v supply for the glove box lite. On the right side kick panel, there is a circuit for the "lock-unlock" switch in the door. It is constant and close to where the lite is to be. I'm going to check it with a multi-meter and find that connector/wire. I'll let everyone know.
 

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Update-
I think I've found the 12v supply for the glove box lite. On the right side kick panel, there is a circuit for the "lock-unlock" switch in the door. It is constant and close to where the lite is to be. I'm going to check it with a multi-meter and find that connector/wire. I'll let everyone know.
Well- I made a premature statement. It turns out that the only time there is 12v in this circuit is when a switch is pressed-sends a pulse to the ECU-and that energizes the motors on the locks. there is no constant voltage. My bad.
 

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Best way to evaluate that is to study the EWD PDF diagrams. However, I've already done that (part of my own homework), and ILL+ isn't effected by the dash illumination potentiometer. ILL- is, but that's on the negative return path, not the power source ILL+.
Thanks Trevor. That'll really help. I just got a response from V-LED's about my last purchase (front running dual color LED's) and they are offering LED strips some on sale. I got the 6" long 6K strip for ~$3.99 + shipping. My biggest problem is getting the glove box back in place after removing it. It is rather balky aligning the hinges. It takes several tries to get them in the right position without rubbing the opening or making the latches function.
 

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1. When taking out the radio,did you have any problem getting to the lower two bolts?
2. How long is the harness with the connector on it? I'd like not to disconnect since i have
a custom start screen installed and station presets.
 

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When you take off the oval bezel around the radio & vents, the top two radio bolts are exposed. Then there is a small piece that is directly below the bezel that restricts access to the two lower bolts. It just pulls off though providing easy access to the lower two radio bolts.
Thanks for the info.That's really going to help. I guess that the radio harness is just long enough to connect everything in,knowing how things are. Programming the radio is a pain in the a**. Of course, I shouldn't mind,time is one of the things I have plenty of (retired and all that). I'll make sure I write down all of my screen settings BEFORE I disconnect the radio. I did it the other way around once, I'll never do THAT again!
 

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I did as you said. Put the bracket in for a trail fit.The switch would not open until I added an extension to the plunger (it was adjusted all the way out). The item I used is called a thread protector. It's a molded sleeve that fits over the plunger cap (5/16"). I'm going to see if this works,if not, a mod addition to the bracket will be made to move the switch closer to the glove box door. LED's should be here ~WED./Thurs. That will give me time to access the radio light circuit.
 

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I did as you said. Put the bracket in for a trail fit.The switch would not open until I added an extension to the plunger (it was adjusted all the way out). The item I used is called a thread protector. It's a molded sleeve that fits over the plunger cap (5/16"). I'm going to see if this works,if not, a mod addition to the bracket will be made to move the switch closer to the glove box door. LED's should be here ~WED./Thurs. That will give me time to access the radio light circuit.
I found another 12v source for the glove box lite. Instead of the radio, I opened up where the three controls on the lower panel console are located. Found the dark green wire going to them, and tapped into it.After checking with a multi-meter, and confirming that there is voltage,I put everything back together. Thank God I didn't have to disconnect the radio.
BTW did anyone see the Boston/Baltimore game yesterday? That was amazing! Seventeen innings. Now I usually don't watch every game,but I couldn't stop viewing that one.
 
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