[Dale]

I think that you correct with the wiring. The power mirrors only work when the ign. switch is on. Thanks for the measurement on the angle. My pin switch is due on Thursday or Friday so I can look for the green wire before it gets here. I'll order the LED strip next week and finish this project up. I just installed the rear LED's and will put the load resistors in tomorrow.

 

[TrevorS]

I like it, I think i'll copy it

I think that you correct with the wiring. The power mirrors only work when the ign. switch is on. Thanks for the measurement on the angle. My pin switch is due on Thursday or Friday so I can look for the green wire before it gets here. I'll order the LED strip next week and finish this project up. I just installed the rear LED's and will put the load resistors in tomorrow.

That's great guys ! I suggest doing a hardware trial install (including the switch, but not the LEDs) to make sure everything's correct -- best not to hit any snags after the LEDs are installed. Any further questions, I'll help as best I can !

 

[Dale]

Trevor,before I go into tapping the green wire on the radio, I'm wondering if the LED's are affected by the dash dimmer? At night, I don't drive with the dash fully lit. Does that fact become a problem?

 

[Dale]

Trevor,before I go into tapping the green wire on the radio, I'm wondering if the LED's are affected by the dash dimmer? At night, I don't drive with the dash fully lit. Does that fact become a problem?

Update-
I think I've found the 12v supply for the glove box lite. On the right side kick panel, there is a circuit for the "lock-unlock" switch in the door. It is constant and close to where the lite is to be. I'm going to check it with a multi-meter and find that connector/wire. I'll let everyone know.

 

[Dale]

Update-
I think I've found the 12v supply for the glove box lite. On the right side kick panel, there is a circuit for the "lock-unlock" switch in the door. It is constant and close to where the lite is to be. I'm going to check it with a multi-meter and find that connector/wire. I'll let everyone know.

Well- I made a premature statement. It turns out that the only time there is 12v in this circuit is when a switch is pressed-sends a pulse to the ECU-and that energizes the motors on the locks. there is no constant voltage. My bad.

 

[TrevorS]

Trevor,before I go into tapping the green wire on the radio, I'm wondering if the LED's are affected by the dash dimmer? At night, I don't drive with the dash fully lit. Does that fact become a problem?

Best way to evaluate that is to study the EWD PDF diagrams. However, I've already done that (part of my own homework), and ILL+ isn't effected by the dash illumination potentiometer. ILL- is, but that's on the negative return path, not the power source ILL+.

 

[TrevorS]

Update-
I think I've found the 12v supply for the glove box lite. On the right side kick panel, there is a circuit for the "lock-unlock" switch in the door. It is constant and close to where the lite is to be. I'm going to check it with a multi-meter and find that connector/wire. I'll let everyone know.

Guess what, lock-unlock is for the door lock-unlock solenoid, not illumination !

 

[Dale]

Best way to evaluate that is to study the EWD PDF diagrams. However, I've already done that (part of my own homework), and ILL+ isn't effected by the dash illumination potentiometer. ILL- is, but that's on the negative return path, not the power source ILL+.

Thanks Trevor. That'll really help. I just got a response from V-LED's about my last purchase (front running dual color LED's) and they are offering LED strips some on sale. I got the 6" long 6K strip for ~$3.99 + shipping. My biggest problem is getting the glove box back in place after removing it. It is rather balky aligning the hinges. It takes several tries to get them in the right position without rubbing the opening or making the latches function.

 

[TrevorS]

Thanks Trevor. That'll really help. I just got a response from V-LED's about my last purchase (front running dual color LED's) and they are offering LED strips some on sale. I got the 6" long 6K strip for ~$3.99 + shipping. My biggest problem is getting the glove box back in place after removing it. It is rather balky aligning the hinges. It takes several tries to get them in the right position without rubbing the opening or making the latches function.

Just look closely at the box hinges and the mating slots -- at how they work together. If you take your time and look closely, most of this stuff gets much simpler .

 

[Dale]

1. When taking out the radio,did you have any problem getting to the lower two bolts?
2. How long is the harness with the connector on it? I'd like not to disconnect since i have
a custom start screen installed and station presets.

 

[zinger]

When you take off the oval bezel around the radio & vents, the top two radio bolts are exposed. Then there is a small piece that is directly below the bezel that restricts access to the two lower bolts. It just pulls off though providing easy access to the lower two radio bolts.

 

[Dale]

When you take off the oval bezel around the radio & vents, the top two radio bolts are exposed. Then there is a small piece that is directly below the bezel that restricts access to the two lower bolts. It just pulls off though providing easy access to the lower two radio bolts.

Thanks for the info.That's really going to help. I guess that the radio harness is just long enough to connect everything in,knowing how things are. Programming the radio is a pain in the a**. Of course, I shouldn't mind,time is one of the things I have plenty of (retired and all that). I'll make sure I write down all of my screen settings BEFORE I disconnect the radio. I did it the other way around once, I'll never do THAT again!

 

[TrevorS]

1. When taking out the radio,did you have any problem getting to the lower two bolts?
2. How long is the harness with the connector on it? I'd like not to disconnect since i have
a custom start screen installed and station presets.

The bolts were no problem, but the harness doesn't provide a lot of extension. However, it provides enough !

 

[Dale]

I did as you said. Put the bracket in for a trail fit.The switch would not open until I added an extension to the plunger (it was adjusted all the way out). The item I used is called a thread protector. It's a molded sleeve that fits over the plunger cap (5/16"). I'm going to see if this works,if not, a mod addition to the bracket will be made to move the switch closer to the glove box door. LED's should be here ~WED./Thurs. That will give me time to access the radio light circuit.

 

[Dale]

I did as you said. Put the bracket in for a trail fit.The switch would not open until I added an extension to the plunger (it was adjusted all the way out). The item I used is called a thread protector. It's a molded sleeve that fits over the plunger cap (5/16"). I'm going to see if this works,if not, a mod addition to the bracket will be made to move the switch closer to the glove box door. LED's should be here ~WED./Thurs. That will give me time to access the radio light circuit.

I found another 12v source for the glove box lite. Instead of the radio, I opened up where the three controls on the lower panel console are located. Found the dark green wire going to them, and tapped into it.After checking with a multi-meter, and confirming that there is voltage,I put everything back together. Thank God I didn't have to disconnect the radio.
BTW did anyone see the Boston/Baltimore game yesterday? That was amazing! Seventeen innings. Now I usually don't watch every game,but I couldn't stop viewing that one.

 

[TrevorS]

I did as you said. Put the bracket in for a trail fit.The switch would not open until I added an extension to the plunger (it was adjusted all the way out). The item I used is called a thread protector. It's a molded sleeve that fits over the plunger cap (5/16"). I'm going to see if this works,if not, a mod addition to the bracket will be made to move the switch closer to the glove box door.

That's a function of the mounting of the bracket to the braces. It needs to be located as near the seat as practical. I suspect that's the problem with using speed nuts.

I found another 12v source for the glove box lite. Instead of the radio, I opened up where the three controls on the lower panel console are located. Found the dark green wire going to them, and tapped into it.After checking with a multi-meter, and confirming that there is voltage,I put everything back together. Thank God I didn't have to disconnect the radio.

I checked the schematic and C30 pin 5 is the correct dark green wire at the rheostat. It's not clear exactly what is on pin 8 (though same color).

 

[TrevorS]

For anyone who wishes to attack this project, I just want to recommend test fits at every stage to make sure you achieve a successful install. Mounting hole location and sizing is very important and so be certain to take your time. When you're satisfied the hardware works as needed, then turn to the LEDs and wiring, but definitely leave that to last. If your initial efforts result in the need to redo the bracket, you don't want to have already installed the LEDs.

 

[TrevorS]

Just a follow up. A fellow on another forum wanted me to build one for him (same as mine). We agreed upon a mutually fair price, I built it for him, and he's pleased with his new glove box illumination. Here are photos of what I sent him and how it appears following install. The pin switch does not interfere with glove box access, it's too far off to the side. It also doesn't require adjustment, just install.

If this interests you, let me know.

 

[egg80x]

awesome DIY!

 

[TrevorS]

Hey, it works for me, to each their own . I'm willing to build exactly what I built for myself if there's interest. However, each must decide what they want and excursions are hardly definitive ! All I can say is I have the materials needed to make another, but that requires person-to-person communication to happen. If you're interested, talk to me !