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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently bought lowering springs and I got a quote from a local mechanic for $200 for the install. Being unemployed, thats pretty out of the range I'm comfortable with. I'm pretty handy around a car, but the only suspension work I've done is replace a control arm. I've been watching this video about 10,000 times to get an idea of how to do it
, but honestly for those of you that have actually done it, how hard was it? I have all the tools except the spring compressors but I can easily get a pair to borrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yeah I know I mean thats a given, but I'd rather spend $50 on an alignment instead of $250 installed with alignment lol. And well since the rims are going to be off I might as well paint my calipers while I'm at it, shop wouldn't do that for me either
 

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Rear can be done in 20 min. Jack up rear and Remove both lower shock bolts 17mm once the both are removed the springs will fall out and then use oem rubber mounts with new lowering springs.

Fronts are lil more tricky but I dont use spring compressors to remove oem springs all I do is use my impact gun and step on the strut well using the gun to remove the nut it will only shoot out about 6 inches. TRD springs and DF210 I can push them down by hand but you will need someone else to help you put the nut back while you push down on the top hat. Dont pay 200. You can rent the spring compressors at AutoZone or Oriely's for a small deposit that you get back once returned. Hope this helps

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I did mine and it wasn't a big deal. The hardest part was the control arms were rusted on and difficult to remove.
 

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It was easy. I got screwed when he gave me the trd sprigs and the rear springs are for a celica. So the front is done!
On a related note. Anyone have rear TRD springs???
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah I mean I have the confidence in myself that I can do it, and I know I can get spring compressors from O Reillys (I used to work there), I'm just wondering realistically whats the chances I can pull it off. I watch that video almost 3x a day now, now I just need to find the time to do it. My buddy just bought a 1977 Datsun 280z last night and we're trying to get it on our side of town so probably later or tomorrow I'll be able to do it.
 

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Just remember Gary, 90 percent of any project is planning, 10 percent is doing it.
 

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I did this install over the weekend and it really wasn't hard at all. Some of the nuts and bolts were a PITA to remove after 165,000 miles of use, but my trusty (and cheap) HF impact gun did the job. Only real issue I had was stripping out the driver's side end-link 6mm hex head. Fortunately they're only around $20 shipped from RockAuto for a replacement.

Also, everyone is right in that you need an alignment afterwards. As the car sits lower the geometry all around changes pretty significantly. What I didn't realize is you can't adjust the camber, caster or toe of the rear of our xB2's without using shim kits. That's the budget economy car design restraint of a beam axle rear suspension.

Find a reputable alignment shop and get an idea of what they charge to do shim kits for alignment. I suspect it's going to be expensive as it takes some trial and error for them to get it dialed in. Of course, if you don't care about tire life or handling and just want the look nevermind on the alignment.
 

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I don't know, $180 isn't unreasonable for labor. Now that I know how to do it, 2-3 hours (for a weekend mechanic like myself) would be about right. And $90/hour isn't the worst rate I've seen, maybe on the high side, but not terrible.

Hookemhorns, I followed this walkthrough pretty closely: 08 xB Spring Install - Lots-O-Pics - Scionlife.com

Shock and spring replacement doesn't require any exotic tools, but you will need a basic collection and a good working area to do this. If you've got access to them I'd say do this yourself, become more intimate with your car and save a few $$ in the process.

Do some searching on xB lowering (or any car for that matter) and you'll see you will need an alignment. Chances are you're going to end up with more toe-in on the rear especially that will accelerate tire wear. It shouldn't make it dangerous to drive, but you will eat tires more quickly than you want.
 
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