[BrickPig]

OK so I know alot of you out there have added sound deadening to your rides. Since I just added an 8" sub under my front passenger seat I'm listening to my music alot more. I'm looking for some sound deadening advice and I have some basic questions:

• what is the most cost effective sound deadening material to use? Where is the best place to get it?
• I've read some threads about some materials that emit tar-like odors? What is that about?
• where is the best place to apply sound deadening material? Doors, floors, trunk, roof, etc. List a priority order if possible.
• If I do the doors, should I do the inside of the outermost metal panel, or the inner metal panel closest to the occupants, or both? If I do the inner metal panel, should I remove the OEM plastic vapor barrier? Should I cover the holes or leave them open? Should I instead apply sound deadening material to the backsides of plastic door panels?
• Any tips on panel removal, material application, etc?

I've seen a few threads on what people have done but they are usually "whole hog" approaches (they take the entire car apart), and they differ on their approach too. I'm looking for a cost effective approach (don't want to go overboard on time and/or money invested.)

Thanks in advance for any replies!

 

[amped performance]

ive got the stinger mat on sale right now actually, and is really good, the same as dynamat(industry standard) i'd start with the doors first and work my way down to the floors. the doors you wanna do the inside of the door skin, (outermost metal) and do the inner metal too. i'd seal up as much of the door too. the door skins are what are going to flex the most, so that will cause the most distortion. the floors already have like a factory coating on them, which is mediocre at best, but its there, so its something until you wanna get the stuff for the floors. the roof wont flex that much. and the trunk is usually only done if you have audio back there, although the more deadening material the better of course. theres kinda a debate between doing the doors vs the floor cuz you'll hear the road noise through the floor, however the doors are the thinnest metal on the car. do both parts of the door and take the plastic stuff off if you're gonna put the matting in its place. the smell ive never really heard of, but should dissapate in a couple days if its possible.

as far as installing the material, you have to have like a wooden roller to roll out the material once you put it on. check out this video to better explain it.

i wouldnt install it on the plastic panels, only on the metal. any other questions, lmk!

 

[TrevorS]

Maybe it depends on what you're trying to accomplish, don't know. I used Edead to eliminate resonances that prevented my aftermarket door speakers (front and rear) from melding well with the 'A'-pillar OE tweeters (that I happen to think work just fine )! However, I didn't install a subwoofer. In any case, I found the primary offenders to be the inner door panels resonating from the door speaker energy, so I applied Edead to the outer skin interior in the general neighborhood of the driver, but I largely applied it to the interior of the inner panels, the result was a dramatic improvement in sound quality.

IMO -- the plastic interior panels are a major offender, but you'll have to conclude what you will in trying to chase down good bass sound !

 

[TartanJack]

On Land Cruiser sites, this stuff has a great rep:
Quietcrap land cruiser sound deadener

 

[evilcalvin]

www.raamaudio.com!! they win all the sound deadening tests, I've been using them exclusively for 7 years. They also stole the Harmon International account from Dynamat. Harmon owns JBL, AKG, Lexicon, Mark Levinson, Harmon Kardon and Infinity. You will get alot of opinions here as we are all opinionated and love our coveted brands. I have used the Edead, and that was a mistake I won't do again. Brown Bread is the worst. Dynamat xtreme is very good, Second Skin is also very good. I am cautious of using brands that actually dont make sound d. as is that of Stinger and others. I am a installer and use Raamat and Cascade when available. I am also an opinion here, you need to make up your mind. I have sound deadened more than 75 cars in 16 years, 3 of which have multiple 1st place trophies in Sound Q.

 

[TrevorS]

Since my experience was excellent with Edead, I'm very much interested in what differences there were in what you were trying to accomplish Vs. myself when you apparently became severely dissatisfied with that product. Instead of a broad slam, please provide specifics -- thanks !

 

[evilcalvin]

as usual I clean the surface to apply to with windex w/ ammonia for a clean grease free surface and then applied the edead to the surface with a roller and snap-on angle hook tool. I found that even after 15 minutes or so that it was easy to remove from the metal surfaces and in some places that were tight, that it lifted off from the 2 sections of metal. I was urged by a buddy to try this stuff as it was a good price. I used it on my xb earlier this year and have since thrown away the excess. It seems it has weak sticking properties and as it was so thin I was tempted to double up. Instead I removed all vertical points for fear it would come loose on its own and replaced with BXTII from Raamaudio. Besides Rick's stuff as stated before is superior. Call them up, ask for Rick to send you a sample. Tell him River sent you. Judge for yourself. I started installing Dynamat in 1995 when we had to heat up 1st then apply with heat guns. I love Dynamat, but it is not as flexible as BXTII is. He also has Ensolite which I always buy. check out a couple cars done.
2005 Ford F-150 XLT Super Crew(wifee ride)
2006 Z51 Corvette

 

[BrickPig]

evilcalvin, thanks for the links, they are useful.

(I want to decrease road noise and enhance the listening environment. At this writing I have a stock exhaust system.)

 

[Troll]

So it's not really worth it to use any of those over the counter under coatings sprays?

 

[TrevorS]

as usual I clean the surface to apply to with windex w/ ammonia for a clean grease free surface and then applied the edead to the surface with a roller and snap-on angle hook tool. I found that even after 15 minutes or so that it was easy to remove from the metal surfaces and in some places that were tight, that it lifted off from the 2 sections of metal.

Doesn't match with my experience at all, maybe it's incompatible with your cleaning procedure. I just wiped my surfaces, applied the Edead, and it stuck just fine! In fact, trying to realign pieces after applying didn't work very well at all! I had to position it the way I wanted the first time.

 

[x925abmx]

imo. i have 2 12" kickers in a ported box=lots of bass. if my box is facing the hatch it ruins everything. itll flip a dime on the roof with the amount of flex i get up there. you wanna talk about indoor rattle. check out you coin cubby by the steering wheel. a lighter bounces around crazy in there. door cup holders with rattle a tad but hardley noticable with the radio on high.
The one youll notice alot is the roof and rear hatch. before i got rear ended i cut a peice of foam about 1.5 inch thick to match rear plastic hatch cover. popped it open dropped a few shirts nice in tight on the inside of the hatch to stop rattle and laid the foam under the plastic cover. it was a tight fit a little excess to cut out but other than that it stopped rattle deepend my bass as well a quieted the outside noise down alot