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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Like access to tails lights inside car , how to get to wires . There are several kits out there . Will never pull over 400# & that includes trailer wt .
Just not finding info on this

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not what I was lookin 4

Already knew this . Was lookin for more real hands on stuff. I got spolied from the subie sites they offer so much detail.
Oh I would not use ignition for power, maybe back in the day ,but not now.
But thanks anyway
Just wanted to do the best pre buy research I could.

Cheers
 

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Already knew this . Was lookin for more real hands on stuff. I got spolied from the subie sites they offer so much detail.
Oh I would not use ignition for power, maybe back in the day ,but not now.
But thanks anyway
Just wanted to do the best pre buy research I could.

Cheers
No, not back in the day, I personally want protection against accidentally running down the battery -- I'm not recommending my solution to anyone else, just sharing it. Perfectly good instructions are available with the reputable kits. Choose your kit and read the instructions.
 

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I got my wring kit from etrailer. It was 2nd gen xB specific. The only part that was difficult was getting the power supply from the battery all the way back to the taillight area. I had to remove a few trim pieces to get to a suitable spot to run the wire, and it was a royal pain getting it through the firewall above the pedal area. Inside the taillight area, it was all plug and play wiring.
 

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I got my wring kit from etrailer. It was 2nd gen xB specific. The only part that was difficult was getting the power supply from the battery all the way back to the taillight area. I had to remove a few trim pieces to get to a suitable spot to run the wire, and it was a royal pain getting it through the firewall above the pedal area. Inside the taillight area, it was all plug and play wiring.
I used a homemade tool that was essentially a small~ish metal tube, cut at an angle similar to a syringe needle. Poke that through a rubber gasket/dust plug and while it's through the plastic, thread the wire through it. Once the wire's through you slide the metal tube through, unthreading it from the wire, the rubber gasket tightens around the wire left behind, add a drop (no more than a drop) of DOT-3/brake fluid to make the rubber stick to the wire and you have a fairly bomb proof setup.
 

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Very interesting (my dear Watson). What is the dia. of the tube, and how long is it?
 

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Very interesting (my dear Watson). What is the dia. of the tube, and how long is it?
It's fairly small. Only needs to be big enough to thread a pos & neg wire through so 1/4" is more than adequate for more auto electric applications unless you're moving big power and need a larger wire. Basically you just make them as needed. I often would buy a spool of black and red wire from Radio Shack and use that for most everything I could so I would just get a tube to fit that. When I got the right size tube I would clamp it to the bench of my horizontal ban saw and cut it to resemble a syringe tip.

My original idea came from my college degree in art actually. More specifically my time in ceramics. A hole cutter is a tool for making holes in wet clay. When you drill through the handle you can clean the clay out easier which was essentially the first version of this tool I accidentally made. Here's some pictures of the actual tool made by a ceramics company called Kemper.

 

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With the handle you have to back the tool up which isn't always ideal which is why I started making my own with tubing, once the wire was through, pull the tube through leaving the wire behind to pull to the necessary length.
 

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With the handle you have to back the tool up which isn't always ideal which is why I started making my own with tubing, once the wire was through, pull the tube through leaving the wire behind to pull to the necessary length.
Thanks TARDIS, what a great idea. Many products are out there, but application is the secret. I've found a lot of stuff made for one purpose,but could be used for something else. For example, when putting on the TRD shifter knob,using the grip portion of a garbage disposal stopper for a cap on the shifter shaft under the new knob. It works great, keeping the shifter boot from touching the knob.
 

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With the handle you have to back the tool up which isn't always ideal which is why I started making my own with tubing, once the wire was through, pull the tube through leaving the wire behind to pull to the necessary length.
I've found some tubing that may work for this. The tube made for supplying water for a toilet, is made of brass and chromed plated. It hooks up to the water valve from the wall to the tank and is ~ 5/16 dia. I found it at the local home center. It can be cut with a slant to make the point and be as long as you want. It comes in various lenghts (24" to 30"), so several could be produced. I'd be carefull putting a hole in the firewall grommet as not to hit any existing wires in the harness,but other than that it sounds like a good way to install wires from the cabin to the battery or whatever your connecting to.
 

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That's a good point. Before you make any punctures try your best to look behind the gas/brake/clutch pedals to make sure you're clear as to not damage existing wire.

Also, make sure that you don't trap your routing tool. I've had a couple buddies have to undo their work because they forgot to remove the tool from the grommet.
 
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