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It seems like there are some people out there that would be interested in seeing a DIY for this...

Overall it was pretty easy. It took me about 20 minutes with taking pictures.

The sway bar does come with instructions, but I still thought this would help. It does recommend jacking up the XB, but I just laid on the floor in my garage. Anyway, on with the install.

Tools required: 13 mm and 17mm wrench. Socket set with 13mm and 17mm socket. Otherwise all hardware is included.

The first step is to reverse the bolts at the base of the rear struts.


If you were to jack up the vehicle, the struts would be fully extended, but I didn't really find it to be a problem just holding them in place when I flipped the bolts. This next picture shows the bolt flipped(Note this is the driver's side, and that the bolt should be facing the middle of the XB).


Install one end of the sway bar and finger tighten the nut.


Repeat on the other side.


Next, the instructions say to place the mounting bracket on the rear crossmember 9.5" inches from each end.


Then put the rubber bushings over the sway bar.


Push the sway bar with bushings as far into the crossmember as you can. You will then "clamp" it in place with the bracket. I recommend starting with the rear, as it is much easier to hold into place this way. On the driver's side, you'll need a 13mm wrench since there isn't enough room to get a socket on it.


This is what it will look like when the bracket is tightened.


The last thing to do is just tighten both bolts that mount the struts, and you are done.


I did this with the combination of the front strut tower brace. It did stiffen the suspension considerably, but there is a bit of body roll still. My hope is that when I install the TRD springs, the majority of body roll will be gone. I hope this helps. -H9
 

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Anyone have a write up for the front Sway bar?
 

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wow! that was easier then i thought it would be! Great job and write up!
 

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:clapping: Great DIY! BTW, Did you still jack up the body before removing the bolts at the strut base?
 

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Interesting how there is such a perfect, snug place to bolt in the rear sway . . .
Almost like it was DESIGNED for one to be there . . .
(There SHOULD be one there, stock!)
 

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I'll have my Front and Rear Sways along with my TRD springs on as of Sunday. I'll let you know,,,
 

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I just want to point out that what is described here as the first step actually should NOT be done! Although it definitely makes the install easier, the bolts should NOT be reversed. The nuts lock in the OEM position (which is why you must NOT turn them.) This groove to ridge lock is lost if you change the bolt orientation from oem, or apply torque to the nuts. Correct installation requires the bolts and nuts remain as oem. This first photo shows the correct orientation of the bolt -- DON'T reverse it!

healthynine said:
The first step is to reverse the bolts at the base of the rear struts.


The following two photos both depict the bolt in the INCORRECT orientation, the nut should be at the OUTSIDE, just as oem.


 

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So its done! Feels like a go-cart! Only thing keeping limiting my cornering now is the tires and rims. A little bouncy (Rigid) but I really like it. A little CLUNK in the front end but that was taken care of after the re-tightening of all the underbody bolts.
 

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I tried installing mine tonight but couldn't get the bolts off. Not sure why I even attempted with hand tools. Oh well, looks like I'll have to clean my parents' garage to get to the air compressor.
 

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Awesome thanks! So how do like you it? Im thinking about getting one.
Its a MUST!!! you should get front strut tie bar and rear sway bars. Oh man, what a great feeling to have especially when you hit those sharp corners in fast and furious..I can't imagine driving w/o them would be a bummer...i swerve in and out on the freeway like piece of cake..i love these add on..it was my first upgrade..some said to purchase just the rear but to have both is almost unmatched to other cars on pave roads except for these suited up sports cars..thats a different story..but still goodbye to swaying when going to hard corners...you'll see what i mean when you install them..ENjoi!!:cheers:
 

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I put on my TRD rear sway bar just last night. Cornering is much nicer now.

I should mention that the pictures at the beginning of this thread show the "old" rear sway bar.

The "new" one uses ball links at each end, instead of using the rear shock mounting bolts.
 

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I put on my TRD rear sway bar just last night. Cornering is much nicer now.

I should mention that the pictures at the beginning of this thread show the "old" rear sway bar.

The "new" one uses ball links at each end, instead of using the rear shock mounting bolts.
Same here...

I guess the old style were breaking at the weld so Toyota redesigned it and included the ball end links. Make sure if you order one that you get the new style...

Here's a pic for reference...
 

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Thanks for the clarification had me worried there for a second when I saw the picture of the sway attached directly to the strut. :)
 

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I installed the "new" version today. On a scale of 1-10, I'd call the upgrade about 7-8. I had expected a bit more elimination of body roll but the difference is definately noticeable.

I noticed right off the front end became more responsive and does not plow through the corner as severly as without. I'm wondering if the new version with the additional pivot point gave up a bit of performance over the original design.

I plan on the TRD struts and shocks in the near future as a further hedge against body roll. I should have put them on when I did the springs. Oh well, live and learn. If the new shocks and struts don't improve the roll, I may consider the Hotckiss bars.

Overall a good, solid upgrade which I have no regrets doing!

Gordon
 

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Any pointers or heads-up to watch for? I am getting ready to install one on "Boxanne" and it looks pretty simple and straight-forward. Next will be the front strut brace and who knows what else! Look out Laguna Seca!!!
 

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I thought it was an easy install. Make sure you reinstall the shock bolts in the correct direction and torque (67ftlbs) them. If you don't you may hear a clunk if the are not tight enough.

Use a light colored Sharpie when you measure in from the reinforcement so you can see where to locate the brackets on the axle.

Have a 5 mm hex key available in the event the short links spin, unless you have another car to go to AutoZone and get one!

Don't forget to use the silicone grease in the rubber bushings.

You will need a crows foot to torque the upper short link. No way around it if your going to do it by the book.

Gordon
 
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