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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I appologize in advance for my lack of pictures. I did one side as a test run and meant to take pictures of the drivers side as I did it the next day.. I got in a rush trying to start and finish before rain hit and forgot to take pictures but ill do my best with what I got.

I used: a floor jack/jackstands
Philips and flathead screwdrivers
Ratchets (10 and 13mm)
9/16 wrench (hinge)
Allen keys
Heat gun(not necessary)
Grease
Lock tight
8 M8-1.25X40 bolts (and washers)
8 M8-1.25X30 bolts (and washers)
Exacto knife
Electrical tape


I removed the wheel to make it easier to get to and work on everything

Side skirts/rocker panels
- one bolt in each wheel well
- I had 5 or 6 bolts along the underside holding the rocker panel's brackets
- I used a heat gun, exacto knife and my fingers to remove the double sided tape from the side of the vehicle


Wheel well plastic
- 2 screws and a bolt at the front of the well

- More bolts and clips against the back of the wheel well (towards back of car), all these need to be removed

- There was 2 screws under the front end connecting the plastic to the underside of the front bumper/lip
- 2 bolts along the bottom of the rocker panel area towards the rear of the vehicle
- few other plastic push clips throughout the inside of the wheel well (easy to spot. Ps. I hate those things and broke a couple legs off them)

There was little rubber washer type things connecting the plastic to the fender so I just left them and pulled the fender still connected to the plastic

Behind the wheel well plastic there is the plastic barrier between the door and the frame - there is one plastic clip visible from the inside when the door is open that I pushed out and then pulled the piece out through the wheel well

Front Fender
- There is a screw holding the top of the headlight and a bolt next to it on the top of the fender near the front that need to be removed

- Another bolt along the top of the fender near the windshield

- And one more hidden beneath the plastic molding for the windshield wipers that took me forever to find

- pulling the wheel well plastic back and sticking your head in there is another bolt from the fender to the door frame area

- Another bolt when the door is open near the top of the fender is visible from the inside

I pulled the bumper from the fender (scary but was just held by the bumper clips into the top of this black plastic piece.
There is then 2 bolts in this piece I got out while pulling slightly on the front bumper, then when these two bolts are out there is a clip holding this plastic piece to the fender near the wheel well (have to pull it down)
Behind this black plastic is 2 more bolts holding the fender.. once these are removed the fender comes free and simply pulls out

At this point I removed the door panels as shown herehttp://www.newscionxb.com/135-do-yourself/6196-diy-custom-door-panels.html The wire loom running between the door and the body is too short the way it sits so I cut the rubber loom. Reaching into the door you can feel the wires and I pulled the clips holding the extra length inside the door (2 or 3 in total) which freed up enough slack for the doors to open. I used electrical tape on the new length of wires.

There is also a pin that stops the door from opening too far that you must remove about half way up the door. One bolt to the body and 2 on the door and then the piece pulls through the inside of the door.

I greased the new hinges and shock with a grease gun in preparation



And taped the door in place with painters tape to hold it sealed


The stock hinges then are removed by 4 bolts on each


The lambo hinges are then put into place and using lock tight, washers and M8-1.25X40 bolts to the body and M8-1.25X30 bolts to the door (NOTE: I BOUGHT MY HINGES USED WITHOUT MANY BOLTS BUT NEW KITS SHOULD HAVE THE REQUIRED BOLTS [also supposed to be able to use stock bolts but they are much shorter and the new hinges are much thicker])
Bolt the hinges as close as you can towards the front of the vehicle to make sure the door will pass the fender when you open it later.



Make sure the nut and allen key bolt are tight here on the hinge and take the tape off the door (for me the tape didnt do much and adjusting of the nut and allen key bolt was needed)

Open the door and lift it up, it will be heavy as there is no shock to help yet. The door needs to be high before the shock will fit. The bottom of the shock slides into place and the top bolts to the hinge when the door is very high. A pin holds the bottom of the shock from coming out of place.

The distance the door opens out (laterally) is determined by an allen key bolt near the top of the hinge
The height of the door (to keep your original seal when closed) is adjusted using the nut and allen key bolt also near the top (tightening lifts and loosening lowers) - this can be a pain to get right
Both can be seen in this picture


Once the door is adjusted and everything seems to work fine the fender needs trimming...
I used a grinder and dremmel to trim the inside of the fender along the door. This is also scary haha
This took time to trim and see if the hinge would hit it and trim again and test and trim and test. Once the door could lift without hitting the fender went back on in reverse order.
NOTE THE PLASTIC BETWEEN THE DOOR AND BODY WILL NOT GO BACK IN WITH THE HINGES
The wheel well plastic clips and bolts back in and the sideskirt/rocker panel bolts and is double sided taped back on.
And the inside door panel goes back on in reverse as well


REMEMBER TO KEEP YOUR STOCK HINGES/BOLTS/PLASTIC INCASE YOU EVER WANT TO GO BACK. Hinges and bolts are expensive from the dealership I've heard lol


 

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Sweet
 

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Next level!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys.
I like it so far, but ive forgotten i have them so many times already and pulled the door open to far. They open about 2 feet max before they go up and I keep trying to open them normally out of habit
 
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