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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Based on an idea from Helen4Wheels, I would like to take a pair of stock front door speakers (6.5" Pioneer) and put them in my rear doors as a cheap upgrade until I can afford new speakers.

Does anyone here have a set they would be willing to part with for a decent price?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the offer, but I ended up replacing my own fronts with a set of Boston components. I was originally going to try to upgrade my system for little cost, but ended up spending a little money. I have an amp to install now too so I might buy something to put back there instead of reusing my stock fronts.

Thanks again, I appreciate your offer.
 

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Royal Floor Sweeper
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Just a warning/note, you'll have to modify the speakers somewhat to fit the rear housings. There is a plastic ring that needs to be removed (the door cutout is smaller in the rear than the front) and the mounting holes need to be extended towoard the center (the three holes in the rear doors are closer in that the fronts).
Basically, the rears are somewhat smaller than the fronts and the cone is made of paper, while the fronts are larger and the cones are made of plastic.

(If I can find my camera and down/up load the pictures, I can show you what I did to make the ones from a forum member here fit.)
 

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I know what you mean, guys. I ditched the stock setup quickly, aand went with Focal Polyglass VR components front and rear running off JL 300/4. Doors required a lot of Dynamat, but the sound now is nothing short of concert quality.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would really like to get some sound deadener but it is way too expensive for me. I'm still trying to keep the $$ down. I picked up a polk PA660 4-ch amp and will probably put some Polk or Alpine 6.5 coaxials in the rear doors. This summer I'm thinking about a Polk PA880 monoblock amp and a sub. I would like to try my hand at fiberglassing an enclosure that would fit against the side where the JL/Bazooka Xb subs go. I'll have to see what the cash situation is at the time though.
 

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Allow me to share a few points I've run into so far. If this is not appropriate, accept my apologies in advance.

Coaxials in the rear may not be the way to go, or at least it was not for me. Due to the placement of the speaker, the sound stage is non-existent, and the front seats do a phenomenal job of muffling whatever little sound the bottom of the door produces. Components will raise the sound floor, and fill the rear of the car with sound. In SQ field there is even a term "rear fill," though they mainly use midrange only, no highs. In my case, I use both, but aim the tweeters down, into the car.

A lot of midrange sound gets trapped in the door skin, and becomes vibration. Use ¾ inch spacers to move the speakers out of the door and into the door skins. Trim the lip on the inside of door skins where the speakers will be, so it does not hit the speaker. This can be done easily with a heavy-duty box cutter. Use sound deadener behind the speakers, and be amazed at the difference in sound.

If you are looking for a good, clean, strong component set on a budget, look at Kenwood KFC-709PS. $120 or so, 90+ db sensitivity, 80 RMS power handling (which is really good, actually,since peak power means nothing for mids and highs,) soft dome tweeter, and an oversized midbass driver. They also come with adapter plates that work well in odd openings.

YMMV.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I appreciate your input Sykotic. You obviously know more about audio than I do and I am always ready and willing to learn something.

Here is why I was thinking coax in the back doors. I realize that high freq. is directional and would be lost near the floor in the back seat. What I originally thought was to put just a cone back there (like the one from the front door) to enhance what I believe is called mid-bass (tell me if I'm wrong). I'm assuming that most brand-name aftermarket speakers would outperform the stocks. CowBoom (where I bought my amp) often has decent, used Polk 6.5 coax for $28. I thought that even if the high end from the tweeters is lost, the midbass from the cone would still be an improvement and add fill from the back. I didn't really want to drop another $80-$100 for another set of components.

Not to jack my own thread here, but do you have any experience building fiberglass enclosures? Just wondering how hard it would be for a newbie to build one.

Thanks for your advice and please let me know if I have made any incorrect assumptions above. :)
 

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The biggest problem with midbass is that you will need increased power. Due to the harmonics of the rear portion of the car the midrange will be muffled, no matter what. Best thing to do would be to simply change the location of the speakers, but that is very, very labor-intensive, and will cost quite a bit to have done.

Fiberglass enclosures are not really hard to build, but it is a trial-and-error learning curve. If you've ever done any work with fiberglass, you can do this. But it will take time. You can make a mock-up out of cardboard, glass over it, then do the finishing touches after the mock-up has cured.

I decided to go with more power, better speakers, and overall factory look. But it did cost an arm and a leg, and possibly will require a kindney later. :) Good luck to you whatever direction you go in, as these cars sound amazing with the right components, a bit of power, and a lot of Dynamat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I saw a post on another xB forum where a member had a diy showing how she took out all the seats, carpeting, door panels, etc. to dynamat essentially the whole interior - took her 3 days. That would be on my wish list if only to eliminate the road/wind noise. The musical benefits would be an extra plus. Since two 10 x 10 inch pieces cost almost $30 (about $40 square foot) I hate to think about how much that cost! Even with lower cost per sq ft for larger amounts it still adds up to quite a chunk of change.
 

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Royal Floor Sweeper
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You could try this stuff (sold by a Land Cruiser forum guy- ih8mud.com):
Quietcrap land cruiser sound deadener

That is who I would buy it from, should I get sound deadener. I've bought other stuff from Mark and he is GREAT!
 
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