[GarryGraves]

Is there a wink mirror that is all 1 solid panel or are all of them multiple panels? I'm starting to drive myself insane because I wanna get one now but I'd prefer getting a solid one over a paneled one. Is it possibly called something else if it exists?

 

[Damaged]

I haven't seen one as long as the wink mirror as one solid panel but I have seen ones that are like 12-15 inches.
If nothing else, you could talk to a glass shop and see what they can make up for you

 

[BrickPig]

The problem with a wide mirror that is non-paneled is that they make all the objects look smaller in order to provide that wider view. I had a Broadway mirror in my car for 9 months but recently changed to a Wink 5-panel mirror. Wink mirrors provide a wide, non-reducing rearward view but they bring their own problems: they can interfere with sunvisor operation and will sometimes block view of overhead traffic signals. Either solution provides a wider view over the stock mirror but both solutions have their drawbacks. See my write up here:
https://sites.google.com/site/brickpigs2011xb/home/21---wink-mirror

(BTW I still have my Broadway mirror, I'll sell it for $12 shipping included...)

 

[GarryGraves]

I was asking because my buddy actually found a 5 panel Wink on the side of the road in pretty good shape and gave it to me. I held it up and love the view, I'm just trying to make everything about my B smooth and classy. I'm still thinking about it, just not crazy about drilling holes into my headliner or mounting it on the windshield as my stock mirror has enough problems staying on and adjusted with my subs. Any idea if I can take some small like 1/8th inch metal screws and drill into the metal without going through the roof? If so I might wind up doing that since the wink has some pretty strong brackets on it and seems like I'd have less problems with it than my stock one.

 

[BrickPig]

To GarryGraves: yes to mount the Wink mirror you would drill into your headliner and inner sheet metal, then use some small diameter sheet metal screws (like #8 or #10, about 1/2" long) to secure the mount brackets. Please see my writeup.

ALWAYS use a drill stop (lke some tape wrapped around your drill bit) when doing this, to avoid bursting thru the inner sheet metal and denting the next layer of metal, which is your roof. (I once did that on my 1972 Corolla....). To help dampen vibration, you can retain the mirror neck of your OEM mirror and brace the Wink mirror against it.

I don't recommend mounting onto the windshield, I've read too many stories about the mounts not sticking and the mirror falling off.

I will say that if your OEM mirror has problems staying adjusted with your subs, then you may not have much better luck with a Wink mirror. Since one tends to angle the mounting straps forward and thus cantilevered in order to clear the sunvisors, it invites the Wink mirror to vibrate. It -is- possible to mount the Wink mirror so this doesn't happen (especially if you use a 3rd mount/brace point in the middle) but it takes care during the installation.

 

[GarryGraves]

I just referred to your install and have 2 further questions: would I be able to do a more stealth install by drilling into the curve of the headliner right before the windshield? And also instead of using a drill stop, can I just use metal self tapping screws?

 

[BrickPig]

would I be able to do a more stealth install by drilling into the curve of the headliner right before the windshield?

I assume you actually mean right after (aft, towards the rear of the car) the windshield where it meets the headliner. There's no sheet metal directly behind that curve in the headliner, so No. That's why my mount brackets are positioned as far aft (towards the rear of the car) as you see them, because that's where the sheetmetal is. If you remove your sunvisors and feel behind the headliner you'll see what I mean. As I mentioned in my writeup, I should have positioned the LH bracket a couple of inches more towards the center of the car, which would have centered the mirror a little better.

instead of using a drill stop, can I just use metal self tapping screws?

You can try but I think you'll slide all over the sheet metal before you pierce it, and in the process mess up the headliner. Self tapping screws are designed for use in a pilot hole.

A drill stop works fine, especially if you start off with a smaller diameter drill which requires less initial force to pierce the metal and also less continuing force to cut the hole, which together lessen the force on the drill and lessen the chance for unanticipated break thru.

 

[GarryGraves]

I'm not entirely too worried about the headliner since I plan on recovering it very soon. I'll see if I can get a small bit like a 1/8th inch and drill a small pilot hole and just go at it with the self tappers. Idk if I'll get to it today but if I do I'll include some pictures for sure