[Troll]

About to start wiring up for the amp and sub. Just figured I'd look for some hints on good locations to run and hide wires from those that already did it, before I tear it all apart.

Namely, is there any good route for a 4 gauge power wire through the firewall? A big grommet or anything to piggy back? In my old truck I had to drill a hole... Two in fact. One for each power wire. Any other hints are greatly appreciated! Thanks.

 

[TrevorS]

There's a large rubber grommet through the firewall at each side below the dash (roughly half way up and near the corner).

 

[Troll]

There's a large rubber grommet through the firewall at each side below the dash (roughly half way up and near the corner).

I found a large one right above the gas pedal and pierced it with the old wire taped to a screwdriver. Ran it up above the stock harness and behind all the brackets so it's nice and out of the way and hidden.

I don't if that's the one you mentioned but that's what I found. I found some other posts around that mentioned the same thing as you, but I don't know if it's the same one. Worked great.

Indeed this car is so easy to wire with all the Lego style panels and clips. I think it took longer to tear out all the hidden wires in my truck than to install them in the XB.

Everything is wired up. Amp is under the rear seat with a heat shield between it and the cushion towards the back (the amp isn't that large physically, so only the one side touches the seat). Awaiting my Stealthbox delivery but currently using my old L7 solobaric vented box for now. Hooray bass!

 

[TrevorS]

Sounds good, just try to make sure there's no air gap to the engine bay. You want to maintain the seal.

 

[Troll]

Popped in the JL Stealthbox a bit tonight after a few days of having my kicker vented box in... And honestly, I think this thing is louder, hits harder, and lower. Granted the L7 was in the smallest box spec'd for it, but was tuned and vented (not ported) and seemed to be efficient.

Only thing I can fathom, besides possible driver area (12" vs. 10") is that it's 2ohms instead of 4 (I believe, pretty sure).

The amp is getting hotter than before so I imagine this is the case.

Either way, this thing fits great and sounds great and absolutely worth the price for my needs. (carrying capacity)

I haven't mounted it yet, but feel confident doing so as this box isn't going anywhere anytime soon.

Highly recommended.

 

[TrevorS]

FWIW -- 4 ohm is definitely a more desirable speaker impedance for the amp than 2 ohm. Generally speaking, for all drivers, try to stay comfortably above 2 ohm.

 

[Troll]

Now that I've got the sub in. Not quite finalized (not mounted, as I want to do some sound deadening behind it first). And I have some wiring to clean up.

I'm researching sound deadening the whole car, or at least sections as I replace things, like the front and rear speakers (deaden doors while I'm there). Ahh moving into a new car, a costly yet fun process..

 

[phobic]

just make sure to keep the amp in a vented area so if it is getting hot, it wont overheat and shut off. Mine used to do that constantly in my firebird because they were right under the rear glass so they'd just sit in the sun, but it's a small back area, no where else to put them.

 

[Troll]

just make sure to keep the amp in a vented area so if it is getting hot, it wont overheat and shut off. Mine used to do that constantly in my firebird because they were right under the rear glass so they'd just sit in the sun, but it's a small back area, no where else to put them.

Yeah I don't run my stuff very hard. Only to occassional old school rap to mess around, and not often for long. I mostly listen to metal, so the most abuse it gets is constant fast kick drum. Even then at a more than comfortable volume for 45 minutes I could keep my hand on the amp. No worries of it getting hot enough to shut down, even tucked under the seat.

I believe in headroom. More than enough power and volume than I use so it stays clean. Pushing things only causes distortion. Thats only good if you're a guitar player. I'm a bass player. I use this theory with my live rigs as well.

 

[TrevorS]

Popped in the JL Stealthbox a bit tonight after a few days of having my kicker vented box in... And honestly, I think this thing is louder, hits harder, and lower. Granted the L7 was in the smallest box spec'd for it, but was tuned and vented (not ported) and seemed to be efficient.

Kindly explain the difference between ported and vented ???? If it's not a sealed box, then there's an opening of some sort -- please explain your distinction !

 

[xseveredveganx]

Vented = ported... you tune the vents. Vents can be any shape, however circular are the more efficient.
Also known as bass reflex... many different types of theories can be applied to acheive different results.

 

[TrevorS]

Vented = ported... you tune the vents. Vents can be any shape, however circular are the more efficient.
Also known as bass reflex... many different types of theories can be applied to acheive different results.

Thanks, that's my understanding. What matters is how optimally the port/vent is implemented in light of driver size and cabinet volume -- the label one applies is immaterial !

 

[Troll]

Kindly explain the difference between ported and vented ???? If it's not a sealed box, then there's an opening of some sort -- please explain your distinction !

Ported typically means a round straight hole. This box, as explained to me, is a large tuned opening with several angles. It's actually a large rectangle. Probably similair to a folded horn type sub but more enclosed. Thats without looking up the specifics. A way to get more air moving while still being tuned in a smaller enclosure.

 

[xseveredveganx]

Folded horn implements a LOT more theories into the design than a couple folds in a port... FYI.

I'm running a rear loading folded horn.

 

[TrevorS]

Yes, a folded horn is something completely yet again. Bass reflex is a port, can be a rectangular cut-out, a circular tube, or something in between, all still port -- all the same family.

I'm running a rear loading folded horn.

You have a folded horn implementation? Neat ! Would love to learn about it!

 

[Dale]

Now I'm going back many years ago (40), my take on this type of design is finding out the frequency response of the driver (woofer) and making the enclosure to enhance the resonance charactoristics without canceling out other frequencies. I'm thinking of a search on Google to help with that. That's for those that really want to get into this. If I remember correctly, it can get complicated.
Anybody out there an audio engineer?

 

[TrevorS]

Now I'm going back many years ago (40), my take on this type of design is finding out the frequency response of the driver (woofer) and making the enclosure to enhance the resonance charactoristics without canceling out other frequencies. I'm thinking of a search on Google to help with that. That's for those that really want to get into this. If I remember correctly, it can get complicated.
Anybody out there an audio engineer?

I'm a home audio enthusiast (also an EE, but that really doesn't have a whole lot to do with audio acoustics !) As I said, be it a rectangular or cylindrical port, the principles are much the same. Whoever tried to convince you that a rectangular port is better was just misleading you. However, all that matters is you enjoy what you have, beyond that, in all seriousness -- who cares ?